Nikon D5300 vs D7100
Camera Comparisons
·8 min read

Nikon D5300 vs D7100 : Which Should You Buy?

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Nikon’s D5300, the latest update to their already class-leading entry/mid-level SLR, not only widens the gap between Nikon and their Canon competitors, it makes the choice to spend a little more money on the Nikon D7100 even harder. Below, I’ll briefly explain what has been added to (and what has been taken away from) the D5200 to derive the D5300, but I’ll primarily focus on the differences that remain between the D5300 and the D7100. Most entry and mid-level photographers will be perfectly happy with the D5300, but some types of photographers will need to consider the additional capabilities of the Nikon D7100.

NOTE: The D5300 has now been superseded by the almost identical D5500 (which lacks GPS, but adds a touch screen). Read the updated comparison of the D5500 vs D7100 here.

New In the D5300

If you’re deciding between this and the D5200, these are the things that are new in the D5300:

  • the Optical Low-Pass filter has been removed from the sensor for (potentially) sharper, higher resolution images
  • built-in Wi-Fi and GPS have been added
  • the processor has been upgraded to an Expeed 4
  • the top of the ISO scale has been increased by a stop, to 12800 / +25600
  • the ability to shoot 60 progressive frames per second at 1080p resolution
  • its a few milometers shorter and narrower, and about 50 grams lighter
  • the rear LCD is now a larger 3.2″ 1,037,000 pixel model

Nikon D5300 vs D7100: What’s the Difference?

To begin with, we can take a look at the most significant specs for the D5300 and the D7100.

Nikon D5300Nikon D5200Nikon D7100
Price (body)
$597$696 $797
Price (with 18-140mm kit lens)$897$1096$1097
Body MaterialSereebo, (carbon fiber reenforced plastic) body-chassis Plastic (separate body and chassis)Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic
Sensor Resolution24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)		24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)		24.1 Megapixels
(Toshiba)
Anti-Aliasing Filter
(Reduces sharpness, prevents moire)		NOYESNO
ISO Range100-12800
+25600		100-6400
+12800
+25600		100-6400
+12800
+25600
Total AF Points393951
Cross-Type AF Points9915
AF Motor In Body
(For Using Older AF Lenses)		NONOYES
AF Light Level Range-1 to +19 EV-1 to +19 EV-2 to +19 EV
Autofocus Fine Tuning
Adjustments		NONOYES
Shutter Speed Range1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb		1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Expected Shutter Life100,000 Shots100,000 Shots150,000 Shots
Max Frame Rate5 fps5 fps6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
Max RAW Burst
(buffer size)		6 shots, compressed 14-bit8 shots, compressed 14-bit7 shots lossless 12-bit
6 shots lossless 14-bit
Max JPG Burst
(fine, Large)		100*

*this number is so much higher than that provided for the D5200 and D7100, it may be a mistake		35 33
Flash Sync Speed1/200th sec.1/200th sec.1/250th sec.
(1/320th* sec, or slower,)
Wireless Flash
(Built-in Commander)		NONOYES
Auto FP Flash Mode
(High Speed Sync)		NONOYES
Media Slots1 SD / SDHC / SDXC1 SD / SDHC / SDXC2 SD / SDHC / SDXC
LCD Size3.2"
1,036,800 pixels		3.0"
921,000 pixels		3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
LCD ArticulatedYesYesNo
Body Weight480g (no battery)
530g (with battery)		505g (no battery)
555 g (with battery)		675 (no battery)
Battery Lifenot provided500 shots
CIPA Standards		950 shots
CIPA Standards
Viewfinder Coverage95% Frame
.82x Magnification		95% Frame
.78x Magnification		100% Frame
.94x Magnification
Video CodecMPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov		MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
Video Resolutions1920 x 1080 (60p, 60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)		1920 x 1080 (60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)		1920 x 1080 (60i*, 50i*, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)

*only in 1.3x crop mode
Video Length Limit29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.
Headphone JackNoNoYes
Internal MicStereoStereoStereo

Build Quality

Perhaps the most obvious difference between the D7100 and the D5300 is in their construction. The D5300 body is significantly smaller and lighter, with a body made entirely of polycarbonate, while the D7100 is heavier and built for durability, with a metal (magnesium alloy) back and top. Since the D5300 also uses a smaller battery, the carry-around weight of the D7100 is about 30% more than the D5300.

Whether this is an advantage or disadvantage depends on your photographic needs; some photographers (especially those with larger hands) prefer a larger camera with some ‘heft’ to it, while others prefer something more lightweight and easy to carry around, especially travelers and hikers. Needless to say, those who work in harsh conditions will also prefer the D7100’s weather sealing and heavier-duty construction, as a matter of practicality.

The Sensors : Exactly the Same

The success of the D800e may have led directly to Nikon’s decision to produce an APS-C camera without an optical low-pass/anti-aliasing (OLP/AA) filter, but whatever led to the fact, the D7100’s sensor is naked. Before the D800e, all of the major SLRs produced their sensors with an AA filter: essentially an extra layer in front of the sensor that blurs the image slightly, in order to reduce the jagged edges and moire 1 The Wikipedia article on moire patterns is very helpful, if you’re unfamiliar with the term. that have traditionally been associated with digital capture. With modern improvements in image processing software, though, Nikon was confident that the moire and jaggies could be avoided without the AA filter, so they opted to remove it and allow the cameras to capture finer image detail.

Now, with the success of the D7100, Nikon has also decided to remove the AA filter from the D5300’s sensor. Though this does provide the potential to for the camera to produce sharper images, don’t expect too much.

Comparisons of images produced by the D800 (AA Filter) and D800e (no AA Filter) have shown that the principle works; there are subtle improvements in fine detail in the D800e’s images. However, we should not expect such significant improvements in the D7100’s images. The receptors on the 24 megapixel sensor of the D7100 are already much, much smaller than those of the D800e. In fact, the D7100 and D5300 fit about 56% more pixels into the same sensor area than the D800e2 Further details and measurements can be found on DigicamDB. .

Why does that matter? Even with the much larger receptors of the D800, lens resolution has become a serious bottle-neck for image quality3 See this DxO Mark article for further details. . The dramatically higher pixel density of Nikon’s 24 megapixel sensors will tax lens resolution even more, meaning that the D7100’s images won’t get much sharper unless lenses get sharper first.

So, using the best quality lenses at their optimal aperture settings, photographers using a properly stabilized camera might see slight improvements in the sharpness in the center of their images, and in the best circumstances, also towards the corners. For most snapshots, though, there would be no difference between this and the D5200’s sensor.

Auto Focus Systems

Unlike most entry and mid-level SLRs, the Nikon D5300 has a very sophisticated autofocus system. While cameras like the Canon T4i and 60D have 9 autofocus points, the D5300 has 39, though only 9 of them are cross-type 4 If you don’t know why cross-type points are so important, I recommend watching the first half of our Photography Notes video . As you can see from the chart above, this autofocus system, which also incorporates color information, has been adopted from the Nikon D7000.

The D7100, however, shares the same AF system with the flagship Nikon D4 and the D800: 51 AF points, including 15 cross-type… the best system available in a Nikon body.

For all but the most dedicated action photographers, the system in the D5300 (and D7000) will be more than sufficient, even if you’re buying a camera primarily for shooting sports. If your paycheck, however, is going to depend on your focusing system, the extra several hundred dollars will be well spent on the D7100.

Nikon D5300 and D7100, backs

Speed

When it comes to speed, the differences between the D5300 and D7100 are more modest that you might expect. The D7100 does have a top shutter speed that is one full f-stop faster than the D5300’s (ie, 1/8000th vs 1/4000th). When it comes to shooting bursts of photos, though, the D7100 only provides an additional frame per second over the D5300’s 5 fps (unless you’re shooting in 1.3x crop mode, in which case it will give up an additional frame per second).

More importantly, though, the under-sized buffer in the D7100 does not allow longer bursts than the D5300; in fact, the D5300 comes out dead even. The D7100 and D5300 can both only shoot 6 14-bit RAW shots before the buffer is full (the D5200 could manage 8). Compare this to the 15 RAW shots allowed by a Canon 60D or 25 in a 7D5 with the most recent firmware upgrade. Originally, the 7D also shot about 15 RAW frames before filling the buffer , and it will be clear that neither Nikon is probably ideal for photographers who rely on the machine-gun method of action photography.

That said, shooting JPG changes things dramatically. The D7100 can shoot bursts of at least 33 frames (at 6 fps) while the D5300 may be able to shoot 100 or more frames (at 5fps).

Nikon D7100 and D5300, overhead view

The D5300’s Downfall

Flash. With the popularity of “Strobist” techniques over the past several years, flash photography has become increasingly important to amateur and semi-pro photographers, and this is where the D5300 falls short: it lacks high-speed-sync (Auto FP Flash, henceforth AFP) and external flash control with the built-in flash. External flash control may not be a big deal; many of us prefer to use radio-units instead… though the built-in IR system can be very useful with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS).

The lack of AFP, however, is a serious problem. Consider this situation: you’re shooting a portrait outdoors during the day, and you want to use a large aperture to blur the background… perhaps f/2 or f/1.4 . This will push your shutter speed beyond 1/1000ths of a second, much higher than the camera’s 1/200th sec. maximum sync speed. So, if you want to use a flash to soften the shadows or create a catch-light in the eyes of your subject, forget it: the flash will not sync. The same is true if you want to use flash for sports and a high shutter speed, and while you can purchase external command modules or radio transmitters for off-camera-flashes, there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP. You’d need to buy the D7100 instead.

All the Little Things

There are a few other assorted differences that deserve mention here, but they’re mostly the same differences that we saw between the D5100 and D7000. First, the D5300 does not have an autofocus motor built into the camera body, so it will not be compatible with the full range of (old school) Nikon lenses, while the D7100 does posses the motor. And speaking of “focus”, the D7100 is capable of micro adjustments to correct for front or back-focus problems on lenses, while the D5300 is not.

As should be obvious from the images above, the D5300 has an articulated LCD screen, which some people find helpful for ground-level shots and video but others find a breakage hazard or amateurish.

Finally, if you are interested in video, the D7100 has been given a headphone jack for monitoring audio while you shoot. The jack is absent in the D5300 (and D7000).

Which to Buy?

The Nikon D5300 is a great camera, and I’d recommend it for the vast majority of amateur photographers with the exception of those who need superior flash capabilities.

To summarize, you should buy the D5300 if you:

  • want a great, all-around camera
  • shoot primarily with natural light or studio strobes
  • have smaller hands, or need the lightest body while maintaining high performance
  • need an articulated LCD screen for video or photos
  • want to shoot video at 1080/60p

Buy the D7100 if you:

  • are hard on your equipment and need a more durable body
  • use flash for action or fill and need high-speed sync
  • use Nikon’s CLS and want to use the built-in command module
  • shoot macro (or other focus critical work) and need to make micro adjustments to your lenses
  • shoot a lot of video and want a simple headphone jack on your camera

For the sake of simplicity I’ve tried to focus on only the differences that, in my experience, will actually be important. There are, of course, numerous differences between the two cameras, though, and some features may be more important to particular photographers.
If you think that I’ve left out something important, please feel free to let me know.

Please Comment!

If you have additional questions or comments, please let me know, below. I’ll do what I can to answer questions and clear up any confusion.

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Matthew Gore
Editor-in-Chief
Matthew Gore is the Editor-in-Chief and Administrator of Light & Matter Media.
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Fx

Hi all,

Thanks for the comparison and all the comments.
Im quite new in photography and so far was just using a canon bridge for which i start to reach the limits,
Im nowhesitating between d5300 and d7100, my goal is to take macro, landscapes and architecture, and maybe some wildlife.

what would be your advice between this two nikon camera?

Many thanks

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Matthew Gore

Hi FX,

Sorry for the delay… it’s been busy with Photokina coming up!

So, you may have already read it below, but my general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will fulfill your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford.

From what you’ve mentioned as your interests, you’ll get equally good image quality from the D5300… so I’d recommend starting there and using the money that you save to buy the lenses that will help you make better images: a high quality macro lens, perhaps… maybe a high quality wide angle prime, if you don’t have one.

Amazon almost always has the best price… https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Digital-Camera-18-140mm-3-5-5-6G/dp/B00FY3T3TM/ref=as_sl_pc_ss_til?tag=lighandmatt-20&linkCode=w01&linkId=OVFUKSTI6MBMZAMX&creativeASIN=B00FY3T3TM

– Matthew

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Fx

Hi,

Thank you Matthew , I seriously think to start with d5300

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Bora Kılıç

Thank you. I was thinking of buying either 5300 or 7100 but after reading this article, I found out that 5300 suits me well.

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Doaa

Hi Matthew,
I found D7100 with 18-105mm lens+24.1MP+51 AF Points+ 6 FPS but I was told that better if I replace the lens to Tamaron 17-50 f2.8 for Nikon. Honestly speaking I don’t know much about lenses, as this will be my first pro camera. Can you please advice?
also, what is the difference between these two lenses?

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Matthew Gore

Hi DOAA,

First, let me say that the right lens for you depends on what you photograph and how you do it… there’s no correct lens for everyone.

The 18-105mm lens is an average lens. It’s a moderately wide angle to medium telephoto zoom, with maximum aperture range of 3.5 – 5.6. This means that when you’re shooting at 18mm, you can open your aperture up to f/3.5, but when you’re shooting at 105mm, you can only open it up to f/5.6.

The 17-50 f/2.8 (Tamron and Sigma both make good lenses in this range) is a slightly wider angle to mid-range zoom. It doesn’t have the zoom range that the Nikon does, but the range that it covers it covers with higher quality. More importantly, it provides an aperture of f/2.8 throughout the whole zoom range… you can shoot at f/2.8 at 17mm and you can shoot at f/2.8 at 50mm.

f/2.8 lets in 4x more light than f/5.6, allowing you higher shutter speeds or lower ISO in the same light. (If that isn’t clear to you, consider watching my video on the subject).

So, if you’re looking for a lens that is good in low-light, the Tamron/Sigma f/2.8 lens would be better than the Nikon. If you’re looking for a single lens that can cover a greater zoom range so you only have to carry one lens, then get the Nikon 18-140

– Matthew

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Landry

Hi ,
I am an enthousiast photographer , I like to use a camera for portraits , landscape and street photography and everyday photography . I have a serious issue in deciding between the nikon D5300 and the D7100. I like both cameras , I am very tempted to go for the D5300 as it’s cheaper and gives very good image quality but on the other hand the fact it’s not weather sealed appears to be a deal-breaker for me as I do a lot of outdoor shooting . Based on my budget , I am thinking to buy the d7100 (body) and grow with it: improve my skills and buy a collection of lenses overtime as I am planning to keep it for at least 3 years. which lens (cheap but ok lens) do you recommend me to start with ( from nikon or third-party) ?

PS: I kno

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Matthew Gore

Hi Landry,

The lens choice is really a personal matter, but if you want to have one lens that will deal with lots of different situations, the Nikon 18-140mm VR lens that comes bundled with the D7100 is a really good lens (See bundle here: D7100 with 18-140mm).

Beyond that, there are lenses that I could recommend in just about every category… so what focal lengths do you have in mind? Telephoto? Wide angle? Primes? Every photographer should probably have a fast prime lens, like a 50mm or 35mm f/1.8 for street photography, or a 50 or 85mm for portraits.

– Matthew

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Landry

Thank you for your quick response . Since I will be putting more money in the body , I think I will start with a prime lens : 50mm f1.8 ( I do lots of portraits and street photography ) . The bundle D7100 with a18-140 lens is a bit too expensive for me. Will build my system overtime . What do you think of the 18-105 mm VR lens that comes in the kit ? is it a good lens?

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Josh

Hi Matthew,
Great article! I’m currently shooting with a D5100 and just got the new lighter Nikkor 18-300mm this summer. I shoot primarily nature and landscapes. I’m looking to upgrade my body to compliment the new lens, and am torn between these 2 models. My only real reservation with the 7100 is no articulating screen. I find that extremely handy as much as I’m shooting right at ground level for flowers and landscapes. It seems many people dismiss that as an “amateur feature”. I’ve used it a ton and gotten great results

As someone who is shooting still subjects outdoors from a tripod, I’m not at all concerned with flash capabilities or fast focus. The 7100 is definitely in my price range, I just don’t want to spend the extra $300 if the 5300 will give me equally good images. Any suggestions are appreciated!

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Matthew Gore

In that case, I can’t think of any reason that you shouldn’t go with the D5300. In terms of image quality, the D5300 is on par with the D7100, and both will exceed the capabilities of an 18-300mm lens. At only $745 or so, the D5300 is a great deal.

– Matthew

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Jayesh

Great article.

I had Canon P&S (SX20) camera.
Now I am planning to buy DSLR, but VERY much confused between two model.
– Nikon D5300 (18-55mm + 35mm f1.8 + 55-200mm)
– Canon 60D (18-55mm + 50mm f1.8 + 55-250mm)
My main interests : Landscape, Macro, Kids and Portraits.
I am not interested in Videography.

60D is more comfortable in my hands than D5300.
60D is old model (2010) but have more controls.

D5300 is new one in all websites rating of D5300 are higher than canon camera.

Please suggest one.

Thanks
– Jayesh

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Matthew Gore

This is tricky.

The D5300 will give you better image quality… at least to some degree. It’s a newer sensor and higher resolution.

The 60D is also a great camera and I’m a huge fan of Canon’s camera controls.

The fact is that either camera will probably give you great image quality most of the time… more than you’ll need.

If the D5300 is comfortable in your hands, I’d probably go with it. Otherwise, I’d check out the D7100 and go that direction.

– Matthew

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Matthew Gore

Incidentally, if you do decide to go for the Canon 60D, there’s a good deal on it at Adorama right now. It would be bundled with the Pro-100 printer and some paper for $599, after the rebate, for a savings of about $735! Not bad. Just got an email from their marketing program about it. Here’s the link:
Canon 60D + Pro-100 Printer

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Jayesh

Thanks Matthew for your suggestion.
I am from India, so this office is not for me.

– Jayesh

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Mendel bogomilsky

Hi Mathew,
This is Mendel.
Thank you for responding to my comment.
I would like to know which lenses you would recommend.
(I would also like to know what would be key features that might compel me to get the d7100.)

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Matthew

Hi Matthew

I currently have a Nikon D3100 and want to upgrade. I am stuck between the D7100 and the D5300. I am not a professional photographer and don’t plan on becoming one any time soon as the price is huge. But i do love my wildlife photography, thus the reason i am looking for a new camera and from what I understand the more focus points the better for wildlife photography. There is quite a price difference between the two. Is there a huge difference between the D7100 and D5300 for an armature like myself just looking for good quality wildlife photos?

Looking for another professional opinion??? Please help

Thanks a bunch

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Matthew Gore

Hi Matthew,

More AF points can be helpful at times… and they can be an annoyance at times. Personally, I wouldn’t buy the D7100 for its additional focusing points, but that’s a matter of personal taste. Before I got my 5D III, I shot wildlife with a Canon 60D (9 af points) for a while and still got plenty of great shots. Birds in flight were harder… but the 39 AF points of the D5300 are more than enough for that.

The number of cross-type points is important, but again, I think the D5300 is sufficient.

My advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will get the job done, and buy the best lenses you can afford. Especially with wildlife photography… a high quality telephoto or supertelephoto lens will make all the difference in your shots.

– Matthew

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Doaa

Hi Matthew,

I just want to say Thank you for all your advises, they helped me a lot in choosing between these two cameras. I found an offer for both camera and the difference in prices was high (500 USD) but the package of the D7100 was very attractive (cam body, 18-105 lens, 55-200mm zoom lenses, tripod, 8GB memory, wireless adapter and a bag) . I was about to lose it as It was over my budget, but finally I managed to get the cam body+lenses+bag at the price of 1,070 USD. I thought, better to buy the D7100 with more features then buy more lenses and other accessories later. I didn’t want to buy the D5300 and carry around many lenses as I will be travelling a lot and this is my first experience with professional camera. what do you think?

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Mendel

Hi Mathew,
I’m a budding photographer and really enjoy photography. 
I read your article and really enjoyed the thorough rundown of both cameras and how they compare to each other. 
But I’m still confused over which one buy. 
I was debating for a while between choosing the canon t5i/70d or nikon d5300/d7100. After researching a lot I’ve decided that I want to go with a nikon camera. 
I’m not sure if I should get the d5300 or the d7100. 
The reason I’m debating between These 2 is because I want to get the most out of my money. I want to buy the d7100 if it has (much) more to offer than the d5300. 
If there’s not such big of a difference between them, then I’m thinking maybe I should just go with the d5300 and buy a better lens and other accessories. 
But if the d7100 has more to offer, I’m willing to shell out the cash and save up a little more to get a better lens. 
I’m an all around photographer, I don’t have any particular field that I mainly work in. I take photos of family, landscapes, and everyday adventures. 
Please respond at your earliest convienyence.
Thank you.

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Matthew Gore

Hey Mendel,

My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses that you can afford.

So, unless you can come up with a compelling reason that you need one or more of the extra features of the D7100, I’d buy the D5300 and spend the difference on quality lenses. Lenses will make more difference to your photography and they will last much longer than a camera body.

If you’re curious about what lenses I think you should start with, let me know :-)

– Matthew

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Mendel bogomilsky

Hi Mathew,
This is Mendel.
Thank you for responding to my comment.
I would like to know which lenses you would recommend.
(I would also like to know what would be key features that might compel me to get the d7100.)

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Matthew Gore

Hi Mendel,

As for camera features, I don’t think I can say anything about the D7100 that I didn’t already say in the article above, but they’d be high-speed sync flash, more AF points, a sturdier/metal build, faster shutter speed and drive speed, longer battery life, and lens micro-adjustment.

In general, I’d start with a fast prime lens… either a 35mm f/1.8, 50mm f/1.8, or 85mm f/1.8. The 50 and 85mm lenses are great for portraits, the 35mm better for general shooting.

Then I’d go with a large aperture wide-mid zoom and a large aperture mid-telephoto zoom. On a full frame camera, these would be 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8, but on APS-C, the 24-70 would be replaced with a 17-50 f/2.8.

If you buy the professional line of Sigma or Tamron lenses (not their consumer grade lenses), you’ll get great value for your money. The Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 is excellent. The Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 VC USD is also top notch. Neither is cheap, but they’ll give you professional quality results… and they’re about half the price of Nikon’s equivalents.

– Matthew

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Mendel bogomilsky

Thanks.
Would the Sigma lenses match the quality of the nikon lenses.

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Matthew Gore

It really depends on which lenses you’re comparing. Most Nikon lenses will be better than their equivalent Sigma lenses, though a few Sigmas are better than their Nikon counterparts in terms of image quality at least. Many of the professional line Sigmas will be better than Nikon’s consumer line of lenses, though… and in some cases where the Nikon is technically better than the Sigma, the difference is so negligible that it doesn’t justify the price difference.

In this case, the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 performs almost identically to the Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8. In fact, in the center of the frame, the Sigma has slightly higher resolution than the Nikon in much of the zoom range, and at most apertures. The Sigma is a little softer in the corners of the image, though. If you stop the Sigma down to f/4, even in the lab it would be hard to tell which image came from the Nikon and which from the Sigma. The build quality of the Nikon is better, I think.

The price difference is $1400 for the Nikon vs $650 for the Sigma…

– Matt

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Kets

Hi Matthew,

Would you say that the D7100 is more difficult to use than the D5300? If the D7100 is a better camera might purchase it, as the price diff. Is only 50-100 pounds. Would the 18-140mm camera be good on it rather than the 18-105mm.

Thanks

Kets

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Matthew Gore

Hi Kets,

It depends on what you think is difficult. To me, most professional cameras are easier to use because they have buttons and dials for all of the important functions… you don’t have to go into a menu on the LCD to change settings. If you think that finding a function among more buttons is difficult, though, yes… the D7100 has more buttons and dials.

If, when you get the camera, you just sit and spend an hour or two each day for a few days with the camera (and the manual, if you want) exploring all of the controls and what they do, you’ll be very comfortable with it all in no time…. the problem only comes when you try to ignore all of them.

That said, the D7100 is like the D5300 in that you can always set the command dial to “P” or “sports”, etc, and just let the camera do its thing. It’s not the best way to work, but its easy!

Personally, I think that the D7100 with the 18-140mm kit is a great choice; that lens covers wide angle to telephoto with remarkable optical quality. Nikon had an 18-135mm (non VR) that I got back in 2007 and it was excellent, but it was discontinued when people started buying the 18-200mm lens instead (which was optically awful… I have one of those too), so I was very happy to see the 18-140mm appear as the replacement… the optical quality is even better than the 18-135.

In the states, the Nikon D7100 is available as a kit with the 18-140mm, (see here) but I don’t see the same thing available at Amazon in the UK. Odd.

– Matthew

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Kets

Thanks for your advice Matthew, I think am now clear on what to buy. D7100 with the 18-140mm lens.

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Doaa

Hi Mathew,
Thank you for the useful information. It helps me a lot to understand the differences between the two cameras and the advantages of each but I am still confused between these two cameras.
This will be my first pro camera and I’ve been searching to see which one suits my photography needs, of course considering budget, durability and other features. Usually I like to shoot portrait and landscape and I am thinking to add buildings too as I am Architect. The difference in price between the two cameras is not much, so I couldn’t decide based on the budget. I also travel a lot so the D5300 sounds good because of the light weight, but still I feel like going for D7100. can you please help? Thanks

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Matthew Gore

Hi Doaa,

If the price difference isn’t very significant where you are, go with the D7100. It’s the better camera in almost every way… better AF system, more durable, faster, better flash system, etc. ; the only advantage of the D5300 is, as you mentioned, that it’s a bit lighter… but neither is very heavy… the D7100 is still lighter than a Nikon D300s (older APS-C), for example… which weighs 840g (vs the 675 of the D7100) or the 880g of the D810.

Oh, and of course, the D5300 has a swivel screen. It’s not a feature that I like, but some people do. They are more likely to break than a fixed screen, but can be handy. I’d still always take the D7100 if price weren’t a concern.

– Matthew

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Doaa

Thank you Matthew,

Yes, I agree, the D7100 could be the better choice. I also don’t prefer the swivel screen, easy to break especially in travelling.
The only thing I’ll be missing in D7100 is the wi-fi feature, which I read it can be added by adding an eye (something) card, is it true? I don’t care much about the GPS feature.

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Matthew Gore

Yep… the Eye-Fi card. If you shoot RAW, you’ll want the pro model (the other only transfers JPGs), but they’re not very expensive…

https://www.amazon.com/Eye-Fi-Wireless-Frustration-Packaging-EYE-FI-16PC-FF/dp/B0090XWU8S/ref=as_sl_pc_ss_til?tag=lighandmatt-20&linkCode=w01&linkId=ADSY345FUETTSWZ3&creativeASIN=B0090XWU8S

They do work better in some cameras than others… I’ve never used one in a D7100.

– Matt

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Alyssa

I already have a Canon Rebel T3i, but I’m looking to switch over to Nikon. I’ve been looking at a few, and now I can’t decide between the D5300 or the D7100. I’m hoping to be starting up a photography business soon, which would be mostly portraiture, but I will be using my camera for pretty much everything else as well (i.e. landscape, video, random photography, etc.). Which do you think would be the best choice?
Thanks in advance.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Alyssa,

If you plan to shoot professionally, I’d have to recommend the D7100 over the D5300, simply because it will provide the flexibility that a professional needs when it comes to higher shutter speeds (probably not important), high-speed sync with flash (probably important), flash-controlled off-camera flash, longer battery life, better autofocus system, etc. Most of these things are not especially important to a casual shooter who can re-shoot or find another work-around, but if you’re a working photographer and need to capture a moment… you some support from your camera. Moving from the T3i to the D5300, you’d lose some of these features and probably some autofocus performance, though I’d be taking a bit of a step up in image quality. The D7100 makes more sense.

If you’re going to shoot portraits professionally, a wide aperture portrait lens is also very important. Nikon makes a couple that aren’t too expensive, luckily, but there are lots of options, and they’re just as important as the camera body, if not more so. I’d start with an 85mm lens… the 85mm f/1.8 costs less than $500, and the f/1.4 costs about $1500, so your budget can dictate which to start with.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Megan

Hi,
I currently have a D90, which I’m looking to upgrade, and I’m torn. I was going to get the 7100, since it seems like the natural progression from a D90, and I’ve had lots of issues with water/humidity with the D90, so the weatherproofing sounds awesome (I travel a lot, and while the extra weight isn’t ideal, I do not want to relive the time the humidity made my D90 crap out on me for a few days right before I went on safari). But, I photograph my toddler a lot, who is always down on the ground, so the flip out live view sounds really good too (right now trying to photograph her is like some sort of ninja warrior challenge, with the popping up and down from the ground and trying to run backwards in a crouch). I often use a 35mm f/1.8 prime lens with the kid (and a 17-50 f/2.8 as my general lens), and will probably spring for the 50mm 1.4 because of the faster focusing you mention above. Thoughts? Any experience with how the weatherproofing works in wet conditions?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Megan,

Sorry for the delay!

First of all, let me say that I never trust weather sealing. I like to know it’s there, but I’d never take an expensive lens out in the rain just because I know it’s sealed. Maybe it would hold up… maybe not… but it’s not worth the risk, when there are so many cheap options to cover up your camera… even a grocery store produce bag will do the trick. That said… I’ve never had a camera body go bad because of weather sealing failure… Nikon or Canon. When you’re shooting in a humid part of the world, the important thing is to not quickly move your camera from a cool, air conditioned hotel room (for example) out into the heat of the street without some sort of protection. Condensation will form inside of the camera body, and even weather sealing won’t stop that… none of the cameras are completely air-tight… and that condensation will wreak havoc on the electronics. When you make that transition, keep your camera in a bag (camera bag, paper bag… anything with some insulation) for a while, letting it warm up slowly.

Second: have you ever tried to shoot action with a Nikon DSLR while using live view? Some newer cameras are better than they used to be, but they’re still really slow to focus… so slow that it’s not worth the trouble for me. It uses a different focusing system than you get when you’re shooting through the viewfinder. It’s fine for stationary subjects and landscapes, certainly, but kids are not usually so cooperative… so I’m not sure that you’d get as much use out of that as you’d hope.

That said, if you’re used to the D90, you may find that the D5300 feels a little too small, almost like a toy… the balance might not seem quite right, although if you have small hands, it’s worth an experiment. With the D7100, you’ll get something a little closer to the feel of the D90.

I can’t tell you which way to go, but since it sounds like you already have some nice lenses, I might lean towards the D7100.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Mark

Hello Mathew,
I have a D5100 and I really like it for photos. I was thinking of getting a newer camera and I am split. I originally babied my camera but have since taken on several outings (no rain yet) and I was thinking about the 7100 – weather seal. Also looking for higher resolution because I have been getting some photos put on canvas. My current rig doesn’t have enough resolution to take advantage of the larger canvas options. Lastly, the video would be great but I was so disappointed in the D5100 for video I bought a separate video camera. Focus for video on the D5100 was terrible especially in any moderate to low light application.

I was asked to shoot some pictures of a couple and they handed me a nice canon. Not sure of the exact model but what I really remember was how fast it focused, made the D5100 feel super slow.

The lighter weight and smaller body of the D5300 are pluses because I travel with the camera tons. I am a little concerned about the flash as I am starting to use the flash more and more and was looking at getting a remote flash set-up.

Thanks for your review and any thoughts you might share.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Mark,

The D5300 sounds like a good option for you… you’ll just want to invest in radio flash triggers rather than relying on the CLS pre-flash system (which honestly doesn’t work very well anyway in many situations, especially outside). There are lots of good radio triggers available these days: from less expensive models like Yongnuo, Phottix, Pixel King, and of course the old standards like Pocket Wizard and RadioPopper.

When it comes to focusing, almost all DSLRs are terrible; the only real exception is the Canon 70D, which has a unique sensor that allows fast focusing. Other cameras have good video quality, though… you may just opt for manual focus.

Speaking of focus, the focus speed of a camera really depends on two things: the AF system in the camera and the focusing motor in the lens. More expensive lenses have faster motors, like Canon’s USM and STM motors and Nikon’s “Silent Wave” motors. Cheaper lenses are significantly slower. This is part of the reason that I always advise people to buy the least expensive camera that will fulfill their needs, but to buy the best lenses that they can afford.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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wco

I’d hold off on buying the D7100 now, unless you had to have a camera right away.

Photokina is coming in mid September and Nikon is expected to introduce new products.

Rumors are that they will announce another new FX body. But it’s also the case that the D7100 is two years old so due for an update. Could be why they’re offering rebates to get rid of inventory.

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Andrew

Hi Matthew,
I have a Nikon D80 but wanted to upgrade to include video and higher resolution. The 7100 seems closer to the D80 in look and feel, but I’m not sure I need to spend the extra $ over the 5300. I take lots of group photos in low light (in churches) and landscapes. The videos will be of the kids. What do you think?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Andrew,

You’re right… the D7100 will feel much more like the D80 than the D5300 would, but in terms of image quality, you’ll get just as much out of the D5300. Keep in mind that if you have any old, non-motorized lenses, they’re work with the D7100 and D80, but not with the D5300. Speaking of which, my general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will satisfy your photographic needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford… a good large aperture lens will do much more for your low light shots than spending more on the D7100.

That said, there is something to be said for working with equipment that you enjoy and that feels good in the hand. Being inspired and passionate is a big part of producing great images… so you’ll have to decide how important it is to you for the camera to feel like your D80. It may be worth it, psychologically.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Kets

Hi Matthew,

Am struggling to decide which model to go for, either d5300 or d7100 this will be me very first dslr camera. I want to use this camera for landscape, portrait, sports (football) night shots etc etc etc. can you please tell me which if the 2 camera I should purchase.
Thanks.

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Kets

Hi Matthew,
Please advice, am struggling to decide which model to go for, either d5300 or d7100 this will be me very first dslr camera. I want to use this camera for landscape, portrait, sports (football) night shots etc etc etc. can you please tell me which if the 2 camera I should purchase.
Thanks.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Kets,

Sorry I missed your question the first time around! So, for landscape and portrait work, and most night shots, either camera would be fine. For sports, especially at night, the D7100 will be a little better… the 15 cross-type points in the AF system help a bit.

However, if money is a concern (and it always is), you’ll get better performance from the D5300 with a professional lens than with the D7100 and a kit/beginner lens.

If I were on a budget, I’d buy the D5300 plus a Tamron 70-200 f/2.8 Di VC USD for shooting sports. The Tamron is not exactly cheap, but it’s still $1000 less than the Nikon equivalent and is probably a better lens. Or, if you’d like to start a little more modestly but want fast focusing and good low light performance, any of Nikon’s large aperture prime lenses would be good, like the 85mm f/1.8, which is an excellent portrait lens that’s also good for night time events.

But there are lots of choices for lenses, and it depends on what you have and what you’ll want to use…

– Matthew

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Kets

Thanks for the reply Matthew appreciate your help on this. At the moment the price comparison for the D5300 and D7100 is not that huge. The D5300 with 18-140mm lens cost around £950 and the D7100 with 18-105mm lens cost £939. So you can see that the D7100 is cheaper, but not sure about the lens.
Appreciate your help.

Thanks

Kets

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trixie

regarding the high-speed syc limitation of the d5300; would using a neutral density filter provide a workaround this problem?

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Matthew Gore

Yes…. sorta. If you only have to deal with a couple of f-stops worth of light, then it’s not too big a deal. However, if you’ve ever tried to shoot an event with neutral density filters over your lens, especially dark ones, you’ll know that it’s not as easy as it sounds… visibility can be a problem, and autofocus can be a problem.

But yes… it can get your camera down into sync speed range at a large aperture. Also, you can change the environment…. shoot in shade, create shade, darken the lights, etc.

– Matthew

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trixie

thanks for the information. one more question: with the d7100, you can run the hss with the built in flash whereas with the canons, (i.e. t5i or t3i), you have to use an external speedlite?

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trixie

and the 60d / 70d also requires an external flash to make the hss operational?

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Matthew Gore

No… actually, with Canon, all of the cameras have wireless flash control with the pop up ( if there is one) and high speed sync… even the T5i.

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Matt Bach

What about the wireless/wifi capability between the 5300 and 7100. I’m trying to convince my boss to have my work purchase the d7100. I shoot a lot of meetings and events (currently with my personal D3100 and D5000) in large darkly lit rooms with moderate success. But I would like to have a camera that does a better job with this and also allows me to quickly upload photos onto our social media pages as it happens. Can you help me explain to my boss with which camera am I better off and why?

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Matthew Gore

Hmm… that’s a tall order. The fact is, you can quickly and easily add wifi to just about any camera with an eye-fi card, and they’re pretty cheap. But of course, the D5300 has built-in wifi and GPS, and with the D7100, you’d have to buy either the eye-fi or Nikon’s add-on wireless adapter.

From what you’ve given me, I can’t think of any reason that I’d recommend the D7100 over the D5300. They’re both great in low-light, though… they’ll give you better resolution than the D3100 or D5000 with lower noise.

Good luck!

– Matt

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Olivia

Hi Matthew,

Here’s my only deal: this is my first real camera, and I’m a poor college student. I’ll be going abroad to Europe for the whole year, and I would love something durable… that’s what attracts me to the D7100. But is the D5300 durable enough? What do you suggest for a year of backpacking and travel?

Thank you so much!

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Matthew Gore

In my experience, the polycarbonate bodies of modern SLRs are very tough… I’ve used them hard and never had one break on me (though I can’t say the same for battery grips). They’re definitely lighter and nicer to carry around if you’re traveling… I think the D5300 sounds like a great idea.

– Matthew

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Ryan

Matthew, great review. I have generally been a film guy, but considering going over to the digital side of things (at least on part time basis). I am an amateur/enthusiast, and I have been basically waffling between the D7100/D5300. I am way too much of a hack to justify the cost of a FX/D610. I had pretty much convinced myself on the D7100 mostly because of the more rugged build (I live in Colorado, and the camera would largely be used on hikes). However, I just found the following on the D5300, which has swayed me the other way.

http://www.abesofmaine.com/item.do?item=NKD530018140&id=NKD530018140&l=PLA&gclid=CJGniviUu78CFesRMwodGEMAaw

What am I missing here? This seems to be a great deal. Is it too good to be true? I don’t need a bag and some of the other stuff that comes with your typical bundle. Would you recommend just the body or is the package deal with the 18-140mm lens a good deal? The lens alone on Amazon is close to $500. What lens would you consider in the alternative (using your theory of spending money on the glass) if buying just the body? Also, regardless, I need lens with a little more zoom – for wildlife (I have an upcoming safari planned). Any recommendations?

Thanks!

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Ryan

Apologies, bad link. Basically, it is the D5300 on Abes of Maine. $796.60 for body and lens.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Ryan,

If you look through the Abe’s stock, you’ll find that they have the deal you mention listed, and then the same thing for a few hundred dollars more, with “USA” in the title. The lower cost version is “grey market”; it was not intended for the US market and will not come with a valid USA warranty. I purchased grey market stuff when I was a teenager, and it was fine… but there is some risk involved.

As for the longer lens… it all depends on your budget and needs :) I personally mostly shoot with a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, but if you’re looking for more reach than that, 70-300mm lenses are relatively inexpensive and give you some telephoto power, especially on an APS-C camera. Unfortunately, you generally won’t find one with a larger max aperture than f/5.6. Anyway… let me know what you have in mind, and I’ll be able to narrow it down a bit.

– Matthew

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Ryan

Ah, that’s the catch. Now I am back to waffling between the two. Do you have any thoughts on the 18-140mm lens that comes with D5300 package (on Amazon and Abes)? I need a lens that will be my primary, every day lens – I think either something like a 18-140mm or 70-200mm would work, and one with a little more reach that I will use much less frequently (the 70-300mm f/5.6 is more than fine). I am much more inclined to spend the money on my every day lens. And do your recommendations change depending on which camera I buy (the D5300/D71000). I am trying to line up the best value given the Amazon deals. Thanks again – your website is incredibly helpful.

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Matthew Gore

The 18-140mm lens is a great walk-around lens. Back when I bought my first Nikon DSLR, it came with an 18-135mm (no VR) which was subsequently discontinued, but it was optically a great lens and it covers everything from about 27-200mm (35mm equivalent), which is a nice range. The new 18-140 is an improvement on it… it’s lightweight and offers a lot of versatility, while maintaining good optical quality.

It’s not going to have the absolute sharpness of a good 70-200mm f/2.8, but it won’t cost $2400, either, and the difference will be minimal.

The Nikon 70-300mms are are pretty good… but you also might want to check out the Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di VC USD, which is actually quite good (better than the Canon 70-300, which I’m more familiar with).

My lens recommendations would be the same for either camera; they both will require excellent optics to make the most of the sensor, but if the resolution of your lens is the limiting factor in your photography, you’re in good shape!

– Matthew

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Shawn

Is it worth the money to buy the body without the 18-140 and invest in the 18-200?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Shawn,

Actually, aside from the somewhat shorter zoom range, the 18-140 is a much better lens than the 18-200. Optically, the 18-200 is just not a very good lens (the same is true of Canon’s lens, and all of the other all-in-one zoom lenses). The more zoom range that is packed into a single lens, the harder it is to engineer a lens that is sharp at all of those focal lengths. So far, Nikon has done a great job with 18-135 and 18-140 lenses, but beyond that, the engineering has really not met the challenge. I do own a Nikkor 18-200, but I’ve stopped using it because of the optical problems it creates… it’s ruined some images that would have been great with a better lens.

Of course, there is a convenience factor with the 18-200, but if you’re only concerned about convenience, you might as well get a smaller point and shoot :-)

So, to sum up, I’d advise against the 18-200.

– Matthew

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Larry

Hi Matthew,

I need your help! I am visiting Alaska in less than 3 weeks and need to decide between the D5300 and D7100 ASAP. I am considering purchasing the D7100 and so far the consensus seems to be that this is a stellar camera. The only reoccurring downside seems to be the banding issue when playing with the exposure in post processing. I know there are programs out there that fix this but, if possible, I would prefer to avoid needing the extra work. Is this something I should be concerned about?

Assuming that I primarily shoot on Aperture Priority mode, at least initially, what degree of confidence can I expect in NOT encountering excessive noise, banding, grain, and other such visual artifacts? Are such fears reason enough to opt for the D5300 instead? Many reviews for the D5300 claim that noise reduction is superior to the D5200 and that some of the visual artifacts present in the D5200, or even the D7100, like banding, are nonexistent in the D5300.

There are rumors of a D7100 successor in the next few months, which may address such issues while incorporating the EXPEED 4 processor and a newer Sony imaging sensor. For these reasons, I am inclined to perhaps start with the D5300, get a few lenses, and then make the jump to the D7200 later down the road. On the other hand, the more rugged body, weather-sealing, and dual SD card slots would be perfect features for the Alaskan wilderness. Any guidance or insight you could provide would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

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Matthew Gore

Hi Larry,

A couple of things: you can bypass all image quality problems related to the processor by simply shooting RAW instead of JPG. If you shoot RAW, there shouldn’t be any significant difference in image quality between the two cameras. Problems with post-processing artifacts are always worse in JPG images because, as I’m sure you know, about 98% of the captured data has already been thrown away, so there’s less to work with and keep a high quality image. So, if you shoot 14-bit RAW (and it helps if you expose correctly to begin with :) ), you shouldn’t have any trouble with the D7100 or the D5300.

That said, the D5300 is a great camera… and a great place to start. Unless you can think of a good reason that you’ll need the D7100 instead, my advice is always to go with the least expensive camera that will meet you needs and buy the best lenses that you can afford.

– Matthew

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James

Incredibly helpful review and subsequent replies to all the great questions!

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Ravi B

I’ve been considering the D5300 kit which includes the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR as well as a 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF. When I looked into this a bit more, the 70-300 AF does not have an AF motor built in, and the D5300 doesnt have one either. So, if I buy the above said zoom, is it that I wouldnt be able to use it with the D5300? Wonder why they are selling it as a bundle then?
This is the only bother I have before deciding to go with the D5300.

Thanks!

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Matthew Gore

Hi Ravi,

Nikon makes a couple of 70-300 lenses. While it’s true that the cheapest one does NOT have an AF motor built in, the more expensive model with image stabilization (VR) actually DOES have an AF motor. Similarly, the 55-300 VR lens commonly seen in kits also does have a built-in motor. So, it’s really just a matter of making sure that you get the right lens with your kit!

This kit, for example, comes with the 70-300 VR. If you want to spend a little less, though, this one comes with the 55-300 VR.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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John

Hello, Matthew.

I am a beginner to photography. I hope to purchase either the D5300 or the D7100. My only concern would be the D5300 not being weather-resistant. I hope to shoot in difficult conditions, mountains etc. Should I save up more for the D7100? Thanks for reading,

John.

Have a nice day.

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victor

hello sir
i want to tank you for the point giving,you are indid a pro photography.God bless you for me,i love want you say about the 2camera but me you have just tell me the best camera to buy.and that his 7100 tanks again and again

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Matthew Gore

Hi Victor,
Yes, the better camera overall is the D7100, the only question is whether you wand to spend more on a camera or more on lenses ☺

– Matthew

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Christy

I have been researching the differences between the d5300 and the d7100. The only major question I have is about the flash capabilities. I read that the 5300 doesn’t have a sync? I am a beginning photographer who will be doing mostly portrait and outdoor portraits, which will require an external flash. Can you not use external or studio flash equipment with this camera? I am getting ready to purchase a couple soft boxes and a strobe umbrella flash. Will the 5300 not trigger the strobe flash? I am confused on the difference with the flashes. I was set on the 5300 because of the wifi and gps and the LCD fold out screen but now I’m not so sure it’s the one I want due to the flash problem. Could you please offer me some advice? Thank you!
Christy

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Matthew Gore

Hi Christy,

Syncing with studio flash equipment is no problem for the D5300; the sync speed is 1/200th sec on the D5300 rather than 1/250th on the D7100, but that’s not a big deal. You can sync your studio equipment and the D5300 using any of a variety of radio triggers.

The D5300 can’t do 2 things that the D7100 can do:

1) It’s built-in flash can’t work as a command module for external Nikon flashes. You’d need to buy a commander module for it ($220, or Chinese copy for $115), or use an external flash on the camera that has the capability. It adds a little cost, but it’s not a big deal. Or, again, you can use radio triggers (good or cheap).

2) The D5300 doesn’t support using the Nikon Speedlight’s High-Speed Sync features. This is almost never a concern in the studio… I can’t imagine a situation where it would be a problem.

There are a variety of triggering options, depending on what strobes you decide to use, but the D5300 can handle them all just as well as the D7100, as long as you don’t need high-speed sync.

– Matthew

(PS- If you’re not clear about what high-speed sync is, you might want to check out my video that explains it, here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3SjH_Ja_E8 )

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trixie

i think i’ve asked about the question of high speed-sync before but just wanted to verify.
you only use high speed-sync when you’re shooting a subject (with ambient lighting) and the background is lit with bright sunlight?
it doesn’t matter if:
(1) you want both your subject and your background focused or
(2) only your subject focused and your background is out of focus?
and only the d7100 and t5i can accomadate this? the d5300 can’t?
also, i take it your preference is the d5300 over the t5i is due to picture quality?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Trixie,

Sorry for the delay… I just got back from a trip.

The T5i and D5300 are both great cameras; they both have their strengths. If I were just getting started today, I’d probably choose the Nikon because Canon has been so awful about improving the quality of their sensors over the past several years, but they’re both certainly capable of producing professional quality images, suitable for publication.

That said…

HSS is used any time that you want to use flash AND shoot with a shutter speed that is faster than your camera’s maximum flash sync speed (that is 1/200th with the D5300, 1/250th with the D7100). That might be when shooting sports and using a flash for fill, it might be when using a large aperture to blur the background for portrait work and the ambient light is somewhat bright… there might be other situations.

Any Canon DSLR will allow HSS. Any Nikon DSLR more expensive than the D5300 will allow HSS. There are some ways to work around the issue with the D5300, but nothing simple. I rarely use HSS, but I also rarely use TTL flash, period.

– Matt

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Nicole

hi! great article -thank you so much for breaking it down.

i do have some very old non auto focus prime lenses that i use every once and awhile. will this make a different in deciding which to purchase if they’re not autofocus lenses to begin with?

many thanks in advance!

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Matthew Gore

Hi Nicole,

Nope… if they’re not auto-focus lenses, either camera should be able to deal with them equally well… you just may have to set some of your settings and focus manually. :-)

– Matt

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Mark

Hi Matthew,

Firstly, excellent review which (I think) has helped me to decide which camera I’m going to buy.

I’m a total beginner and have spent a month or so studying basic photography theory – which oddly, I’ve really enjoyed even though I haven’t bought the camera yet!! I really want to learn to shoot landscapes and have spent some time researching different camera models to buy. As a beginner, I’m obviously not looking at professional equipment and to be honest, something around the D5300 price range would allow me to get a couple of decent lenses, a decent tripod etc.

However, in the countless reviews I’ve read for the D5300, nobody seems to comment on its abilities in tackling landscape photography! Yet, I’ve noted a number of review sites claiming that the D7100 is a “landscape photographer’s dream”.

This has thrown me a bit as it seems to me that the end result from both cameras should be pretty similar, even if the 7100 has more physical buttons and a few other features etc. I don’t know if reviewers generally steer away from recommending the 5300 for landscape photography because it’s marketed towards beginners and is a bit less rugged, but as I’m not intending on hiking through the Andes, I don’t think these factors would affect me – I intend to use it for coastal and rural shooting and can’t see myself subjecting the camera to any extreme weather conditions – or nothing a cheap rain shield wouldn’t solve. Also, the extra features of the 7100 seem more geared to sports and wildlife with the more advanced AF system and faster burst rate etc. – but I just don’t think any of these extras would be of benefit to me shooting landscapes?

So I’d like to ask 2 questions:

1.) Assuming I stick the D5300 on a good quality tripod (and don’t drop it in the ocean), would this camera do a decent job for landscape photography, or is there something I’m missing – i.e. is there any significant feature of the 7100 I’ve overlooked or any real reason why I should consider the D7100 over the D5300?

2.) Can you recommend any particular lenses for landscape work on the Nikon crop-sensor cameras? I’m aware professional landscape photographers will carry a selection of their favourites from ultra wide to telephoto but as a beginner, I’ll only have the budget to choose 2, maybe 3 at most and whilst I don’t want to feel restricted, I also don’t want to overcomplicate things as I’m expecting a steep learning curve.

Any help at all would be really appreciated.

Thanks!

Mark

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Voltaire John

I just bought a D5300, from an upgrade of D5000. The plus points that i really need on this camera is being light weight, wifi which the shutter can be driven via smart phone, and same image quality as the D7100, but with a noticeable price different. The Vari-angel which is really useful for shooting tricky shots, from the floor, or shoots above your head to the ground. Low lights is also in good quality, low shutter lag. My lenses have af motors AF-S , so it would be a bit redundant buying the motor driven body. Also the focusing is noticeable faster compared to my older D5000. Clarity of the viewfinder is better, and of course the large 3.2″ lcd screen with a million pixel, as compared with my older camera which i have difficulty reviewing the images i took, because of the limitation of the display. 18-55 VR2 Nikkor lens packaged with the kit is also a big PLUS. The images are sharp even cropping from a small portion of the RAW file. Also you can shoot in a room light at ISO 100-200, and it’s already very descent.

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Vivienne L.

Hi Matthew,

Thank you for the awesome review! It is very helpful, indeed!

After reading your article, I am leaning towards the D5300 vs. the D7100 for its price and value. I ultimately want a full-frame camera but do not have the budget for that at the moment.. So the D5300 will cost me less, whereas the D7100 will be more.. and I figured I might as well spend another $5-600 more to get myself a full-frame camera that I really want. Do you think it makes sense to opt for the D5300 and go for the full-frame in year from now? Or should I still consider the D7100 and eventually graduate to the full-frame (fx) cameras in the future?

Also, which of the two models, D5300 and D7100, would be more compatible with FX-format lens considering I am opting for the FX-body in the future? (I am thinking of getting most of my lens in the FX-format.)

Thanks Matthew!

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Matthew Gore

Hi Vivienne,

As you may have already heard me say below… my general advice is to always buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and buy the best lenses that you can afford. This is particularly true with the D5300 and D7100. Unless there is a particular feature of the D7100 that you think you’ll miss, the D5300 should give you identical image quality and very similar performance at a much lower price… and both cameras have such high resolution sensors that they demand the best optics.

There’s no reason to favor one of these cameras over the other if you’re thinking of buying FX format lenses UNLESS you think you might buy some very old autofocus Nikkor lenses. I have a couple of their lenses from the 1990s, for example, an 80-200 f/2.8 and 35-70 f/2.8, that DON’T have focusing motors in them… they require a focusing motor in the camera body, and the D7100 has one but the D5300 doesn’t. However, using these types of lenses gives you slower AF performance than using modern lenses, and the image quality is not as high, so it’s hard to recommend taking them into consideration when purchasing such a high resolution camera.

So, that is all to say: I’d go with the Nikon D5300 unless you have a compelling reason to go with the D7100, and you should use the money that you’ve saved to buy the best lenses that you can afford. The lenses are going to make a much bigger difference in the quality of your photography, and they’ll probably last quite a bit longer than a camera body.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Vernon

Excellent piece, and great tips. Currently evaluating between the two, in terms of overall performance and pricing.

It’s boiling down to the D5300 vs D7100 vs D610. So much variables to evaluate.

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Melissa

FANTASTIC REVIEW!! This helped SO much! THANK YOU! Going to buy the D5300! :D

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Tim

Hi Matthew ! I am a college student who just sold my D3100. I wish to buy a nikon body with better ISO performance and focusing , a nice camera for the coming graduation trips. Which one will you suggest? I sometimes use this camera for event shooting and not often use the external flash as i prefer the natural lighting in most cases. If I choose the D5300 will that be very similar to D3100 ?

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Aldrin

Very good comparision

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Jaideep Dobariya

Hi Matthew,

I am planning to buy my first DSLR and is highly confused between D5300 and D7100.I have a lot of interest in photography and want best in image and video quality and for a long time use.please provide me some guidance on this . For which should I go for it..plz suggest me..waiting for ur rply

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Matthew Gore

Hi Jaideep,

My advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and buy the best lenses that you can afford. In this case, the D5300 and D7100 have the same image quality (when you use the same lens), and they both have great features all around otherwise. I’d go for the D5300 unless you think you’ll need those few features (which I mention above) that the D7100 will give you that the D5300 can’t (master flash control and high speed sync). With sensors this advanced, the major thing that will affect your image quality is the lens that you choose… not the camera.

– Matthew

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Jaideep

Thnks a lot MATTHEW…

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Waldo

Hi Matthew

Question on Nikon lenses. Which 2 Nikon lenses would you recommend for baby photography (twins) in the price range $400-$1400. I was thinking of 50mm F1.4 and then something for full body shots. Will use either D5300 or D7100 camer body

Thanks in advance
Waldo

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Matthew Gore

Hi Waldo,

Lens choice is really a matter of personal taste and shooting style, but for portraits in general, there are a few lenses that I’d like to have along on any shoot.

First, a mid-range telephoto, like the 50mm that you mention, or an 85mm. I really prefer the 85mm field of view to the 50, but again, that’s a matter of taste. As you may know, Nikon makes a couple of good 85mms, and they’re great lenses, despite the difference in price… the 85mm f/1.8G is just under $500, and the 85mm f/1.4 is a few dollars less than $1600. The Sigma 85mm f/1.4 falls nicely in between at about $900, and is also a really excellent lens, too… I’d recommend it just as highly as the Nikkors.

As a second lens, for babies, I’d probably want a macro lens along… or if not a true macro, something that has good close-focusing capabilities. In my experience, new parents love detail pictures of, for example, a babies toes… or for slightly older babies, a tiny baby hand gripping a parent’s finger.

And it turns out that macro lenses also make really excellent portrait lenses… they’re usually either 60mm (small sensor) or 105mm (full frame), which are both great. 105mm gives you a little extra working room, so if you’re working with flashes, it might be easier to avoid getting between the softboxes and the baby, but a 60mm allows you to be close enough to make adjustments… so that’s up to you. The Nikon 60mm micro is cheaper, of course… at about $550. The 105mm is about $850, on sale.

Even for twins, you’re still going to want to fill the frame… so the same lenses should work most of the time. But I can imagine that you might also want something wider now and then… either a 35mm or even wider. Sigma’s new 35mm f/1.4 “Art” series lens is awesome, though I’ve only ever used it on full frame… but their 18-35mm f/1.8 zoom is also really amazing. If you haven’t seen my video review of the (Canon version) of the Sigma 35mm f/1.4, you might want to check it out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OuN1ywuufg&list=UULPoIIbmWrZPT2oFeK3RUyQ

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Leonard

Hi Matthew

I’m looking to up grade from my Nikon d80, which I have had for a number of years, ( and have been happy with.) I’m upgrading because I want to be able to shoot video. I’m leaning towards the Nikon D7100 because of the lay out and mechanics of the camera are similar to the D80. One of my concerns about the D5300 is the lack of sub command dial on the front to the camera. When shooting (images), the convenience of changing the aperture with the touch of a finger, is a big deal in some situations. I do realize that with the 7100 aperture can not be changed during video mode, which seems crazy that Nikon could not have included that capability. But other than the command dial, is there any other feature I’d be losing if I decided to go with the D5300?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Leonardo,

Pretty much just those that I listed above, at the end of the article:
– the d5300 lacks a headphone jack for monitoring when shooting video or playing back
– it isn’t capable of high-speed sync flash, nor can it be used as a commander for off-camera flash
-there’s no focus micro-adjustment for lenses (the D80 doesn’t have it either, so you probably won’t miss it)

All in all, they’re both great cameras, though. I’d probably opt for the D7100, though, if you’re used to the D80.

– Matthew

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John

Another D80 owner here finally ready to upgrade. Could you please elaborate on your recommendation of the D7100 for someone familiar with the D80?

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Matthew Gore

I used the D80 myself for a while, and was really happy with it. That said, my recommendation for a D80 owner is about the same as for anyone else, except that the step down in body size to a D5300 would be really annoying to me… it feels too small and toyish, though it is a great camera. Beyond the handling, though, the image quality of the D5300 and the D7100 will be a significant improvement over the D80 in terms of resolution and low-light performance. Just don’t try to push the shadows too far in post processing!

– Matthew

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John

Thanks for the advice. The final choice for me may well depend on how it feels in the hand. I’ll go out and do an A/B grip comparison before I decide.

Thank you for your generosity with advice on this page. Very helpful!

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adel

hi matthew,
did you recommend to use d5300 for excellent shoot of food like restaurant dishes
regards

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Matthew Gore

Hi Adel,

The D5300 is certainly capable of producing professional quality food photos, but it will take more than just using the camera… You’ll really need to get the light all set up… But that’s another story.

Matthew

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wco

Thanks for the great breakdown.

I have the D7000 and I’m leaning against upgrading to the D610 (want a better focus system than what I already have) and the D7100 (high price and rumors of D7200 due later in the year).

So thinking about going with the D5300 for a relatively inexpensive sensor upgrade. Also think I’d use the in-camera HDR because I rarely set up tripods and have heard you can get decent results handheld.

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Matthew Gore

That makes a lot of sense, as long as you don’t think you’ll need the flash features that the D5300 is missing; many people don’t use a lot of flash anyway.

Incidentally, you don’t need to use a tripod for HDR whether you process in camera or not; if you process with Photoshop (as I do), the non-tripod mounted shots are simply aligned first (and the edges can be cropped if they don’t line up exactly). I haven’t used Photomatix in years, but I believe the same thing is possible there… and either way, you’ll get a lot more flexibility out of your HDR processing if you don’t do it in camera. But if you’re satisfied with the results you’ve seen, perhaps that’s not an issue.

Good luck! The D5300 is certainly a remarkable camera for the price!
– Matthew

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Art

Hi Matthew,
Thank you for a great post which convinced me to go for the d5300. Now I really want to get the lens right. I already have a 50mm 1.8 and I would like one extra lens no more. I initially thought of the 18-200 but you seem to say the 18-140 is a better lens. Can you explain why? Any other lens recommendation?
cheers,
Art

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Matthew Gore

Hi Art,

Like most things in photography, compromises are necessary when choosing lenses. The more zoom range that is included into a lens (particularly if it’s a wide angle to telephoto zoom, rather than a short telephoto to long telephoto, for example), the harder it is for the engineers of the lens to deliver excellent optical performance at any given point along that zoom range. Most zoom lenses are, therefore, sharper at one end of the range (a 24-70mm lens might be sharper at 24mm than 70mm, for example), and the best you can hope for is that the performance doesn’t drop off very much at the other end.

And sometimes it does. With Nikon’s 18-200mm lenses (and, indeed, all of the 18-200+ lenses that I’ve tested), the image quality at the telephoto end of the lens is just plain bad, for an SLR. If you’re used to the quality of cheaper cameras, you might not notice it… and there’s no doubt that these lenses are very convenient, offering so much coverage with a single lens. All of these lenses, though, create much more barrel distortion at the wide angle end of the lens, and the Nikon in particular has very poor resolution and sharpness at the telephoto end. I have one of these myself, and it’s certainly convenient, but I can’t count the number of potentially great photos I’ve ruined by using it.

Engineering is always improving, and I hope that one day there’s an 18-200 that has great image quality throughout the range, but we’re not there yet.

With the Nikon 18-140mm , however, we’re there. The image quality is really at a very high level throughout the zoom range. The trade off is, of course, that you have to settle for less range.

– Matthew

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Art

Thank you Matt – very helpful and good to know. Can I lastly ask you about the Nikon 55-200mm then? Cheers, Art

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David

Thanks so much for the helpful review! I myself am looking to upgrade and am stuck between these models. I started with a D60 (very old I know) and have exhausted all its features and am ready to upgrade to a more advanced camera. I like the affordability and slightly more recent specs of the D5300, however, the video capabilities are a MAJOR factor in my decision making, and even though it has 1080p at 60fps, the fact that the D5300 lacks a headphone jack is terrible! In addition, coming from a D60 I’m not sure I’d like to stay in the same ‘entry level’ category of DSLRs. With the D7100, I really like the more professional grade body that’ll allow me to grow as a photographer, and many of the specs are identical or only slightly inferior to the D5300. However, the D7100 is a bit more pricey, but not too expensive, and the video is slightly poorer, shooting at 1080p 60i instead of 60fps in the D5300. I have other lenses that I would use on the newer model so I don’t need to worry about purchasing more. What do you think the best option for me is?

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Matthew Gore

Hi David,

It is unfortunate that the D7100 was fitted with an Expeed 3 processor, rather than the newer D5300’s Expeed 4. That processor difference, I believe, is what makes all the difference when it comes to video processing… and it’s very unlikely that a firmware upgrade will allow the D7100 to shoot 60p video at full resolution.

My general rule is always this: buy the least expensive body that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses you can afford. So, unless there’s really something in the D7100 that you need (speed, flash sync, AF system, etc), I’d stick wit the D5300 and spend what you can on lenses that can make use of its sensor.

The headphone jack is an issue, of course. You can always use external audio (of course, you’ll have to if you want more than stereo sound…), but I think it’s also possible to use an adapter and use the audio from the HDMI jack… though it would be a bit of an annoyance.

– Matt

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Jaka

Hi Matthew,

Obviously this question has been rolling through my head for the last couple of days and the internet has no answer. Do you think Nikon will ever add a 1080/60p frame rate to the d7100?

Thanks so much for the reply!
Jaka

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Matthew Gore

There’s no way to be sure… but I wouldn’t count on it.

In the past, I’ve seen cameras add 30 fps where only 24fps was originally available (and 24 when only 30 was an option), but the problem with a major jump to 60p would be that the processor would have to be able to handle TWICE as much data… and the D7100 is probably already doing all that it can at 30p. And it’s not just the processor… it’s the whole data pipeline… sensor, processor, buffer, memory, and everything in between would have to be able to handle twice the amount of data. So, if 30p is available, then 60i is very possible… but 60p is a stretch.

For this to happen, Nikon would have to add a new compression method that is very processor efficient and that compresses the data by something close to 50%. That’s asking a lot.

OR… I’d have to learn that (unlike other Nikons) the D7100 has a big processor power surplus that’s sitting around unused most of the time. But considering the buffer size of the camera, this just doesn’t seem likely.

– Matthew

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Dave

Hey Matthew,

Thanks for the great review! I have a D5300 on order but haven’t received it yet. From the specs I see that the max synch speed is slower on the D5300, 1/200 vs 1/250 which hopefully doesn’t make too big a difference.

As far as having no external command mode for the internal flash.. would it be safe to say that a Speedlight flash with a speedlight commander setup would take care of this? Do you recommend picking one of these up?

-Dave

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Rene

I understood that the D7100 has high speed sync, where it uses an electronic shutter. I might be wrong about this technical detail. As to the commander, you are absolutely right, it would work. But why buy, carry and setup another device?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Dave,

The difference between a 1/200th and a 1/250th may not seem major… and I guess it’s not most of the time. If you’re shooting sports, however, and you need to use flash mixed with ambient light, the amount of motion blur that you capture at 1/200th can be significantly more than at 1/250th, surprisingly. If you’re using ALL flash, though, then this is not an issue.

More importantly (as Rene mentions), the D7100 can use high-speed sync, so that you can shoot at any shutterspeed with a compatible flash (though there’s a dramatic loss in flash power). However, this is NOT the same thing as using an electronic shutter (the D7100 does not), which allows you to use the full power of a flash at any shutterspeed.  For a full explanation of that difference, I recommend watching the short video I made on the subject, here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3SjH_Ja_E8

In any case, I don’t actually recommend buying a Nikon control module like the SU-800… there are much better options now. The Nikon system uses light flashes to transmit information, so the flash units have to be in the line of sight of the command module… nothing in the way…  they can’t be too far away, and there can’t be interference from other light (they’re not very reliable in daylight, when you need fill flash).

Much better options are the TTL Pocketwizards (expensive) or the cheaper (but bulkier) Chinese knock offs like the Yongnuos. I actually have 4 of these and they’ve been great… I should probably write up a review.

– Matthew

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Dave

Awesome thanks so much for the info Mathew and Rene.
I was actually looking at the Yongnuos which seem pretty popular with great ratings on Amazon.

I also read somewhere that you can use a non-TTL cable in manual mode rather than using a radio/wireless trigger. Would the shutter be controlled from the flash in this case?

Also could using ND filters to cut out some light using a larger aperture like 2.8 solve the problem of shutter speeds being forced faster than 1/200? I have nd2, nd4, d8 and a 17-50 2.8 lens but haven’t experimented with it yet.

-Dave

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Matthew Gore

Hi Dave,

Yep… you can always use cords instead of wireless, it’s just a bit of pain, and not practical when you’re shooting events. With radio triggers, you can use one of the remotes to control the camera, but I’ve never seen it done with a wired setup… but I haven’t done that since the mid 1990s… I’m not sure what’s possible now.

As for ND filters, the answer is YES…. you can use them to get your shutterspeed down if you’re already at low ISO and want to use a large aperture. However, keep in mind that there are a couple of issues with that- if you’re working an event or other situation where light is changing, it can be hard to deal with changing ND filters all the time; for each stop of ND filter you add, you’re also cutting the power of your flash in half, and of course, if you add more than  2 or 3 stops of ND to an f/2.8 lens, it’s hard to see through the viewfinder and the camera may not be able to autofocus reliably. Maybe those are rare enough situations that you don’t have to worry about it, but it’s worth knowing about them.

– Matthew

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Rene

I commented before on this nice thread saying that I tend towards the light camera. I changed my mind when I considered the missing features of the 7100 (flash master mode, flash sync time, flash lock and maybe some others).

I still have not bought the D7100. Going to pixel peep between my D90 and the D7100 at ISO800 (downloaded RAW from dpreview with ACR treatment) revealed no real progress in terms of noise. The resolution is higher for sure, but I do not really need that. Comparing full images on my 24” monitor the images look virtually the same. I am sure even a A3 print would show no differences.

Maybe I do instead invest in a better portrait lens.

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Reu

i have read threads/forums complaining about backfocus problems, could you explain or shed some light into this topic?

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Matthew Gore

Hi Reu,

Sorry for the delay; just got back into town. That said, I’m not sure what I can tell you about this. Back (or front) focusing problems can happen with any camera and lens (this is just a matter of the focus being consistently off… the focus is a bit closer or further away than you intended). Unless you’re in a situation where the depth of field is very shallow, the issue is easy to ignore. This is common with older lenses; most new lenses focus correctly with the new cameras.

However, with the D7100, you have the option of correcting it via in-camera focus adjustments. You can save adjustments for something like 20 different lenses, so that each time the camera detects the lens, it will make focus adjustments so that the lens will focus correctly.

If you use live-view focusing, this is never a problem. The D5000 series cameras do not have the ability to save focus adjustments.

If you want help micro-focusing your lenses, you can use a devise such as this, or you can build your own.

– Matthew

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Jaka

I’ve been using the d5200 for almost a year and – though it’s certainly a great camera, two things bother me quite a lot:

– lousy battery (try shooting over an hour of video…)
– small viewfinder (try looking through a 35mm film camera like a Minolta XD7…)

For those 2 reasons alone, and better build quality, i’m thinking of selling the 5200 and adding €300 for a d7100.
But i’m not that sure it’s worth the extra cost – especially cause the d7100 STILL doesn’t have a 1080/60p mode. :(

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Apu

Hi Matthew,
Thank you for your excellent review above, it is really helpful for all the Nikon lovers out there.

I used to have Nikon D5200 with 18-105 Nikon lens until last week when it slipped off my hand & everything broke.

Now I’m planning to buy a new Nikon. Everyday when I go out, I take my camera with me. I’ve grown over D5200, so can you please advise me weather should buy D5300 or D7100. I’m looking for something which I can use everyday/ rough use, as it’s going to be on the move on regular basis.

would be able to also help me with the Lens’s as I’m confused between the two:
1) Nikon 18 – 140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Zoom Lens &
2) Nikon 18 – 200mm f/3.5-5.6G VR Telephoto Zoom Lens
The reason I’m confused is because they both cost nearly the same, & I know this sounds dumb but I don’t know the difference between the zoom & telephoto lens’s, as for some reason I always though that you can not zoom a telephoto lens, but clearly I was wrong.

Your advise will be really grateful.
looking forward to hear from you soon.
Kind Regards

Apu

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Matthew Gore

Hi Apu,

To start with, it sounds like the Nikon D7100 would be a good choice for you if you require a camera that can take a little rough-handling now and then; it’s a much more sturdy camera.

As for zoom vs telephoto:  a telephoto lens is simply a lens that magnifies things that are far away; it’s the opposite of a wide-angle (which makes things appear smaller so you can fit more into a single shot). On a camera like the Nikon D7100, this means that any lens greater than about 50mm is technically a telephoto (on a full frame camera, somewhere around 70mm is about what the human eye sees, if you’re matching through the viewfinder of your camera). However, usually when people talk about “telephoto”, they’re referring to lenses that are greater than 150mm.

A “zoom” lens is any lens that you can change the focal length… in other words, you can twist a ring on the lens an zoom in or zoom out on the scene. With a 50mm lens, you can’t do that… all you can do is focus it. Some zoom lenses are telephoto, like 100-600mm lenses, for example, some zoom lenses are wide angle, like 10-20 mm lenses, and some lenses are both, like the 18-200 (the 18mm end is wide angle, the 200mm end is telephoto).

So, the 18-200mm lens covers a larger zoom range, and things at 200mm will look larger than things at 140mm.

However, the image quality is going to be better with the 18-140mm lens… it will be sharper all around, for reasons that I won’t get into here.

So, my recommendation is the Nikon D7100 with the 18-140mm lens :)

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Brad Summers

Thank you for your review. Thankfully both the 5300 and 7100 have come down in price and have a minimal difference. My concern is the lack of “weather sealed.” We recently went to Europe and it rained 13 out of 17 days. Not sure how sensitive it is to weather or not, but not sure it worth saving $100 for it to potentially be ruined due to moisture. They both seem like great cameras and frankly like the red color option for the 5300 but really hesitant about it getting wet and ruining it.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Take care,
Brad

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Matthew Gore

Hi Brad,

First, my general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that meets your needs and buy the best lenses you can afford… but of course, you’re the only one who knows what your needs are, in a camera.

That said… a word about weather sealing: I don’t trust it, even on my bodies that are heavily weather sealed. More importantly, most LENSES are NOT weather sealed and are much more likely to be ruined by water (even if the electronics survive, moisture in the barrel can cause mildew and condensation on the interior optics that can’t be cleaned out. So, buying a camera because it’s weather sealed means that you’ll also have to remember to buy lenses that are weather sealed, at the very least.

On the other hand, there are lots of very inexpensive options for use in inclement weather that are going to give you better protection than weather sealing. You can go with something cheap and light (and less than $10) or something a little heavier for less than $15, or if you’re going to be shooting in bad weather frequently, you can go with a professional rain hood for substantially more. These can also be handy if you’re in a sandy location and it’s windy.

– Matthew

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Stephanie

Hi Matthew!

Thank you for helping us to choose between the 7100 and the 5300. I am a novice photographer who is hoping to get more into photography now that I have the time for it. I was hoping that you could give me some guidance on purchasing 3 different lenses for the 5300. I am interested in a basic, telephoto and macro lens. Thanks so much!

Stephanie

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Shine

Hi Matthew,

If i have to choose between Nikon D5200 and Canon 700D Which one you suggest ? I am looking for good image quality, easy to use and video.
Thanks
Shine

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Matthew Gore

Hi Stephanie,

Sorry for the delay… I haven’t been around my computer much over the past week or so :)

The Macro lens is the easiest place to start, since there aren’t many options. If you’re looking for something that will just allow you to get close, the Nikon 40mm Macro is a great choice… great optical quality, and it’s inexpensive. However, it doesn’t give you much working distance… so if you’re trying to take a picture of something that’s alive (like insects, small animals, etc) you have to be physically very close to the subject to get the close up picture… and that will scare things away (or block your light, or both). So, to add some working distance, either the Nikon 105mm or Sigma 105mm will give you more space. Both will give you great image quality. Both lenses have image stabilization, and the Sigma costs about $130 less for comparable image quality.

Lets start there. For the telephoto, it really depends on your budget… and for a “normal” lens, do you mean a zoom lens or a single focal length?

– Matthew

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Stephanie Davis

Thank you Matthew! I actually just purchased the D7100 with a 18-140mm VR DX Lens…haven’t had time to get out and shoot some with it but I feel as though I made a good choice with your help. I now need a good zoom lens and would be appreciative if you could make some recommendations. Thanks so very much!

Stephanie

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Matthew Gore

Hi Stephanie,

The 18-140 should do a great job covering most situations. When I started shooting Nikon in 2006, I got the older 18-135mm which had great optical quality and I loved it, and your new 18-140 should be even better.

So, if you’re looking for a good telephoto lens, I’m assuming that you’ll want something to cover the range beyond what you have… and that narrows your options down a bit… the 70-300mm range seems appropriate.

Nikon does make a lens in this range, but believe it or not, the Tamron version is actually less expensive and sharper! Both are nice lenses, so if you’re a Nikon purist, you may be happy with either, but the Nikon is a little weak at the 300mm end of the zoom range, whereas the Tamron is still quite sharp across the frame.

Good luck with the new camera!

– Matthew

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Stephanie

Thank you so much Matthew! I truly appreciate your help.

Stephanie

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Marjorie Beynon

Read the D7100/D5300 comparison with interest. My only concern is the preference you give the 7100 when shooting Macro. I currently have a D80 and need a lighter weight camera with a good grip because of arthritic thumbs/hands.

I use a macro lens for textures, flowers and bugs for example. I recently purchased a Tamron 90mm F2/8 Macro 1:1 VC and would like your opinion on likely results if I chose the D5300 or any other suggestion you would have. I picked up a D7100 body only the other day and its size is good but its weight would be a problem.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Marjorie,

If you have NOT made micro-focus adjustments from the menu of your D7100 with your lens, then you’ll get the same image quality on the D5300. The only time that will make a difference is if you have a lens that isn’t focusing in the right place, and is consistently front or back focusing… these adjustments will help it focus in the right place. Some lenses have problems, but many others lenses don’t, and with some lenses (Sigma lenses), you can make those adjustments in the lens rather than in the camera. And if you’re using manual focus, this is not an issue at all.

The D5300 will be a little smaller than the D80 and D7100, and substantially lighter. I’m not sure if the size difference will be a help or a problem.

Hope that helps!

– Matthew

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Marjorie Beynon

I have been following the D5300/D7100 reviews and comments since February of this year.

Haven’t made the decision as yet. Reading the rumours of new camera releases. In my area the difference in total cost between cameras with the 18-140mm lens is now 170.00.
The prices include all charges and shipping.

This will likely be my last camera purchase. I recently bought a optitech sling strap to use with my current D80 and it does make a big difference for the neck and less stress on the hands as I found I did not need to be gripping the camera as I walked.

So, now with the closeness of price would you still suggest the D5300….appreciate your time and efforts for your answers to all the queries you have received.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Marjorie,

There’s no question that the D7100 is a better camera in several ways, and if the price difference doesn’t mean that you’ll be spending significantly more on lenses, then the D7100 seems like the way to go. That is, of course, unless you think that the weight of the D7100 will be an issue; it’s still not a terribly heavy camera, but it is bulkier than the D5300.

At this point, it sounds as though you have a good grasp on the facts of the issue… so now you just have to decide where your preferences lie. Good luck!

– Matthew

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Samantha

Mathew!

          OK, so I am very stuck. I am BRAND NEW to photography. However, I have a huge interest in learning the skill,  and want to be able to take photo shoots of my kids, friends, possibly weddings etc within the next few years. I want a camera that I can really grow into, and not have to upgrade after a few years or so. I want one that is easy to learn, but one that will take the best pictures. I want the image quality to be GREAT, to where people would know that “those pictures are profession” pictures. I have ruled out the 3200, because it’s too entry level.  I am considering the 5200 5300 or the 7100 Nikon’s. I would also need to know what upgraded lenses I could buy. I was thinking about the 7100 and adding the Nikon Zoom Telephoto 70-300mm f/4-5.6G Zoom-Nikkor Autofocus Lens.  OR the 5200 with a Nikon Normal-Telephoto 55-200mm f/4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor Autofocus Lens for Nikon 

Or the 5300- but I don’t know much about it. 

Do you think that the 7100 is too “much” camera for me? Someone who is just starting, but doesn’t want to replace the camera when I get good in a few years?? What takes the best quality pictures???  If you took the same picture with both camera’s, could you tell that the 7100 picture was “better” than the other 2?? Any help would be WONDERFUL!!! thank you!

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Samantha

OR if you have a different Nikon recommendation, please let me know :)

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Natalia

I started with D80 and before that had no DSLR Canada and had soooo much fun with it and took a lot of images. Then I bought D80 and it is kind of like a D7100 but older.AND I just stopped taking pictures as much as I did before for a simple reason It was too complicated to get results I want in the simple situation such as home, quick image of my family. So eventually I learn it but it is not “fun”, you have to think, you have to plan. Then it was time to update my old D80 and found this post and it made my mind to go with D5300 instead of D7100 and I have NO regrets! It gives you a lot freedom with a to learn BUT it has fun features such as turning screen and presets for amazing images (I like HI-Key pictures). You definitely can do it in manual settings but sometimes I just want to take picture of my daughter playing and not to thins about ISO, shutter speed….I really love this camera. You just need to be careful when you buying lens because not all them will “fit”.

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Matthew Gore

Hey Samantha,

Whether you go with the D5200, D5300, or D7100, the image quality is going to be excellent (and probably indistinguishable, although the D5200 may be slightly lower res in some cases) when used properly with great lenses. The same is true, though, if you shooting with about ANY SLR. I know plenty of people who shot professionally (weddings) with a Nikon D7000 or D300 (16MP or 12MP) just a few years ago, and had no problem with image quality :-)

That is all just to say that the camera body doesn’t matter as much as 1) knowing how to use it well and 2) the lenses that you choose. There are certain situations that one of the newer cameras will give you better image quality than the older ones that I mentioned, but they much less common than people think. And no… if you shot a picture properly with any of the three cameras you mentioned, you wouldn’t be able to tell which camera it came from just by looking at it :-)

My general advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and then buy the best lenses you can afford, so I’m inclined to say that you should buy the D5300. The more you learn, the more you’ll be able to do with the camera, but it’s pretty easy to use out of the box.

Lenses are a much harder choice, because there are so many and they make such a dramatic impact on your image! A good lens can make a picture. I’ll come back to this, though…

– Matthew

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Samantha

Mathew, (or anyone else who knows what they are talking about :) )
thank you for your fast reply! I am going crazy trying to decide on everything! I think that the 5300 is a good fit for me also. If I am correct, it is better than the 3200 and 5200, but not quite as “fancy” as the more advanced 7100. If I went with the 5300, what lenses are good for it? I would be shooting mostly kids/families, maybe a wedding , scenery things like that. Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR Vibration Reduction Nikkor Lens or the Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G AF-S DX IF-ED VR Vibration Reduction Zoom-Nikkor Lens? There is also a 70-33mm lens in the kits I am looking at. Thank you !

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Archna

Hi Mathew .
PL suggest which is a better lens for D5300 ; I am getting a good deal if I get it as a bundle with 18-55mm VR II Zoom Lens and Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR DX AF-S ED Zoom-Nikkor Len or should I go for a combo of Nikon 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G VR DX ED AF-S Nikkor-Zoom Lens and 55-300.
Do I really need both of them or just one lens can be enough to start with & which one.. This will be my first DSLR.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Archna,

There’s no “need” to buy more than one lens, but it can certainly be helpful, depending on what you want to do with the camera.

For most beginners, I’d say that the 18-140mm lens is a great place to start; it will cover wide-angle to telephoto with good image quality all around, and you don’t have to worry about changing lenses all the time.

However, if you’re going to be shooting a lot of sports, then you’ll want to make sure that you get the 55-300 (or a similar lens) for those telephoto shots when you just can’t get very close otherwise (when the play is on the other side of the field, etc).

Similarly, you can certainly get away with only owning the 18-55, but it’s not a great portrait lens, and it’s even worse for sports (or anything else that is going to be far away… wildlife, architectural details, etc), but it will be fine for most snapshots and landscapes.

– Matthew

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Archna

Thanks Mathew for your very clear views on lens. But one more question.
What about 18-300mm lens. How is it compared to 18-140.

Also If i go for bundle, does it make sense to go for the which includes the following:
♦ 1) Nikon D5300 Digital SLR Camera Body (Black)
♦ 2) Nikon 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G VR DX ED AF-S Nikkor-Zoom Lens
♦ 3) Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G VR DX AF-S ED Zoom-Nikkor Lens
♦ 4) Nikon Deluxe Camera Case
♦ 5) Spare EN-EL14 Battery for Nikon
♦ 6) Battery Charger for Nikon EN-EL14
♦ 7) Precision Design DSLR300 Flash
♦ 8) Transcend 64GB SDXC Card
♦ 9) PD-58PVTR 58″ Tripod with Case
♦ 10) PD 58mm UV Glass Filter
♦ 11) PD 67mm UV Glass Filter
♦ 12) Zeikos Pop-Up Flash Diffuser
♦ 13) PD HDMI to Mini-HDMI (C) Gold Audio/Video Cable (6′)
♦ 14) PD ML-L3 Wireless Shutter Release Remote Control
♦ 15) PD 6-Piece Cleaning Kit
♦ 16) PD 8 SD / 2 MicroSD Memory Card Case
♦ 17) PD LCD Screen Protectors

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Matthew Gore

The more zoom range you pack into a single lens, the harder it is to engineer good image quality across that whole range… and the 18-300 has about twice the range of the 18-140, and as you’d expect, the image quality of the 18-300 is really pretty poor away from the center throughout most of the zoom… and its even soft in the center beyond 200mm. And the color fringing is really pretty bad. I’d avoid it.

On the other hand, the Nikon 18-140 is a very solid performer throughout the zoom range, from center to edge. This is particularly important with such a high resolution sensor as you’ll find in the D5300 and D7100.

As for the accessories… (I assume you’re looking at a kit like this one) some of them would be useful, but most of them are just kinda cheap junk. Th UV filters are cheap and should be avoided, the flash is of questionable quality… and it doesn’t have iTTL (thought the lens) metering and they cost $40 new, the tripod is probably flimsy. Screen protectors probably not needed. However, the SD card is certainly helpful, the HDMI cable too… and it’s always a good idea to have an extra battery (though it’s probably not a genuine Nikon battery). So, it depends on how much extra it is… I usually go with just the body or body/lens and get exactly what I need for the rest of it at a quality level that I can trust. But you might want to check prices on the things you’d find useful and see what you think you’d really use.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Ranjan

Hi
Thanks for the very informative piece. We were planning to get an SLR for mostly family photography and touristy stuff :) – just to step up from the phone camera world. We decided on the D5300 now!

Regarding the lens. I had only one question though – My understanding is that Nikon released a new 18-300 recently (July/2014). So do you feel the same way about that too ( Nikon 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR AF-S DX Nikkor Lens). Should I still stick to the 18-140 or has the new 18-300 changed the equation. Perhaps your comment was for the new one -sorry thats the case. Thanks so much

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Matthew Gore

Hi Ranjan,

Personally, I’d still stick with the 18-140mm. The 18-300 is pretty decent for the zoom range, but that’s not saying a lot… some of the image quality is really quite bad: there’s heavy distortion, and the image is very soft away from the center at the wide end and across the frame at the telephoto end. But, again, to some people the trade-off may be worth the convenience of only having to carry one lens.

– Matt

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@ahsan_s

Not sure why you said “there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP”. You can certainly use ND filters to work around the issue.

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Matthew Gore

You can certainly use ND filters if your goal is to get shallow depth of field, yes: you can use a larger aperture but the ND filter gives you a significant loss in the power of your flash, too… but regardless of ND filters, there’s nothing you can do to shoot at 1/1000th sec. with flash. For example, I sometimes shoot skateboarding or snowboarding, and the athlete is jumping high enough (or my position is low enough) that the background is the sky (mostly). So the athlete is not only moving very fast, I’m using natural light for most of the exposure… so a high shutterspeed is required to stop the action, but to keep the sky from blowing out, I use AFP/HSS flash to fill in the subject.

– Matthew

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@ahsan_s

ND filter does reduce your flash power, but so does HSS. In my opinion, one only needs (i.e., must have) HSS in sports photography. Unless you’re doing sports photography, you can do without HSS.

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John

Stuck on a choice here! My main concern is shooting sans flash in low light- specifically my daughters’ dance recitals, where lights are low and flash is not allowed. Currently I shoot a D50, and the results are mediocre, at best. Keeping my 18-200mm VR lens, I think that the 5300 and 7100 will both be massive improvements in low light over my D50- but which one is ABSOLUTELY better? Only advantage I see to the 5300 is better video at 1080p… but the sealed 7100 is a bonus in my rain-soaked Pacific NW climate.

And how does the 7100 do as well or better than the 5300, when the 5300 has the Expeed 4, and not the older 3? Makes no sense- the processor is better, newer, faster in the 5300, but it still just touches the 7100 in speed?

Anyway, for LOW LIGHT shooting, which one do people think is better?

Thanks all, and great review Matthew!

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Matthew Gore

Hi John,

When it comes to image quality, the processor makes almost no difference unless you’re shooting JPG (and you should always be shooting RAW, but especially in low light… shooting JPG is throwing away over 90% of your data per channel). Expect the low light capabilities of the D7100 and the D5300 to be (practically) identical when post-processed identically… and importantly, the quality of both will continue to improve as RAW converter software continues to improve when you shoot RAW. If you shoot JPG, who knows? There are too many factors to take into consideration.

However, the real place to improve your image quality is going to be by giving up your 18-200 lens, which is not especially sharp even in good light (I have one too… they are very convenient). If instead you buy an f/2.8 lens (even Tamron’s newest model 70-200 is an excellent lens), consider this: If you were shooting at 1/250th at f/5.6 at ISO 3200 with your 18-200, you’d be able to shoot at 1/250, f/2.8 at ISO 800, which is much cleaner on any camera… and of course, using an 85mm f/1.8 would allow you to shoot at ISO 320 at the same shutter speed, if you can get that close to the stage.

My advice is always to buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs and the best lenses that you can afford… they’ll last longer and they have a greater impact on your image quality.

– Matthew

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Rene

Matthew, I like your idea of buying the cheapest camera and investing in other stuff.

One should not only consider lenses, but also e.g. a good external flash you can use to bounce from walls or reflectors. I found that way more valuable than any 1.8 lens, since it gives you light without sacrificing depth of field. Other stuff you could invest into are software for post processing, books to learn, a good tripod, filters etc.

However, I still tend towards the 7100 since it gives me the D90 feeling I am used to. I am just waiting for the prices to drop at least to the level the 5300 is now. I rarely do paid photography, so I have to buy stuff out of my pocket.

Thanks for this nice discussion.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Rene,
I agree that flash can be a very powerful tool for photography, when used well. Unfortunately, in situations like the one that John mentioned, flash is not allowed (and I’ve had the same problem shooting weddings… a lot of churches don’t allow them during the ceremony). In any case, you’re right… it’s important to have a variety of tools and techniques at your disposal so that you can choose the best one for a given situation.

To me, even the D7100 feels a little small. Before the D7000 came out, I was shooting with the D300s, which feels like a solid professional body to me… but the D7000 felt a little like a toy, as small as it was. Still, a great camera, and a smaller body is something that I can get used to :)

– Matthew

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Archna

Thank you once again for ur quick response. Ur views are very helpful in deciding what to buy.
I think I will go for simpler bundle like this one http://www.adorama.com/INKD5300BKB.html

I want a tripod , as i find it very helpful.

Would u advice any websites for online purchase where I can get a better deal than one above.

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Matthew Gore

Actually, Adorama is probably as good as anywhere. I usually buy from them, B&H, or Amazon… mostly Amazon, because they have such a great return policy and I like the free Prime shipping. Prices all tend to be about the same, but for a package deal like the one you’re looking at, it looks good: Adorama

Good luck!

– Matt

(FWIW, if you purchase after clicking any of the links on this site, including yours, it supports the site :) )

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Archna

Thank u Mathew. One last one. If there is a deal to add another lens to the 18-140 bundle, can u suggest a lens for portraits that will go for D5300. Or should I add the 55-300 lens to it.

Also how is the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD Macro 1:2 Zoom Lens (BIM) . Though u don”t advice the cheap extra, is the lens conbo better in this one bundle http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBB0BYM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1M6XVCDTGR3H&coliid=IJQS4MPED00IG

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Matthew Gore

Hi Archna,

Typically, portrait lenses are either 85mm or 100 to about 120mm; but you can get good portraits with just about anything, depending on your particular style. Some people even use 35mm lenses to bring in more background. Regardless of the focal length, one of the things that makes a good portrait lens is the ability to set the aperture wide and create a shallow depth of field (blurring the background). An f/2.8 will usually do just fine for telephoto lenses, but for lenses below 100mm, an f/2 or 1.4 is even better. You’ll find that these lenses are quite expensive, though… Nikon’s 85mm f/1.4 and 50mm f/1.4 are much more expensive than the f/1.8 versions, though, which are also good portrait lenses.

However, if you want something that is more versatile, you’ll probably be just as well off with the 55-300. Tamron’s 70-300mm zoom is quite good; it is actually just a little better than Canon’s old 70-300 USM, though I haven’t had a chance to compare it to Nikon’s; I assume they’re at least very comparable.

As for the combos… I’ll have to leave that up to you. Each have their strong points, so it really depends on what is more important to you. As I say, it may be best to skip the combo and buy equipment that you choose on its own merits.

– Matthew

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Shashank

Hi Matthew,

Thank you so much for the review.I am planning to buy my first DSLR and is highly confused between D5300 (with 18-140 mm lens) and D7000 18-105 mm lens.I have a lot of interest in photography and want to invest in something which i could use to make my learning curve smooth or something which i could use for a long time.Can you please provide me some guidance on this.

-Shashank

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Matthew Gore

Hi Shashank, This is a tricky question in part because there are actually two learning curves: 1) operating the camera and 2) photography theory and composition, and they don’t always complement each other  (eg, if a camera is easy to use but does not make it easy to control certain settings, your photography understanding may suffer).

Putting that aside, the D5300 will give you better image quality, but is missing some flash features, while the D7000 gives you immediate access to the important controls. If you are actually interested in learning photography, no camera will stop you, and my general advice has always been: buy the least expensive camera that meets your needs and the best lenses you can afford.  If you start by reading a bit about theory (like my articles here and here, or my video here) you can get a pretty good idea of the photography basics pretty quickly. (You’ll find more articles in the “Learn Photography” menu above). Getting to know your camera just takes some time; just make sure that you push yourself to try new things with it, and you’ll be fine with any camera.

The only thing holding me back from recommending the D5300 is the lack of high-speed sync for flash. It’s not necessary… I use it rarely myself… but if you plan on having your camera for a long time, you just may decide that you want it at some point… particularly if you want to shoot sports (in already good light) with flash.

Will you ever need the increased resolution and improved ISO performance of the D5300? Most people don’t, but some do. Many of the older pictures on this site were taken with a 12 megapixel Nikon D300. It boils down to this: they’re both great cameras, and both probably more than anyone needs in many ways. But are you the kind of person who will get a 16 megapixel sensor and always wish that you had a newer 24 megapixel, or are you the kind of person who will be bugged by the limitation with the D5300’s flash system? There, I can’t help you.

If I were mostly shooting for personal pleasure, shooting landscapes and fine art stills, I’d go with the Nikon D5300. As a more general shooter, and shooting sports and action as I do, I’d go with the Nikon D7000.

Good luck!

– Matthew

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Fab

hi there, i got a D70s, and hinking to upgrade as it is quite old now. my main concern is that I’m used to have all command on the body, and the little screen on the top with camera setting is really good to have! so was leaning toward D7100. the D5300 has its advantages though as you pointed out and it is lighter, which is good.

how limiting in your opinion is having all command via software?
also i read the D5300 is not dust proof or water resistant, is it so? this is a strong limitation in both urban and natural environment, don’t you think?

thanks

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John

Hello, in dpreview web page there is a possibility to compare pictures shot in different cameras and D7100 pictures compared to D5300 images size difference is at about 4mb. Why there is such a difference if the sensor is the same?
Also I noticed difference in sharpness and color especially red (D7100 look sharper and colors are more vivid).

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Matthew Gore

Hi John,

I can only speculate about the testing procedures of another site; however, if they shot in JPG mode, there could be dramatic differences in processing in camera that would easily account for differences in file size and color… they do have different image processors. JPG files do not accurately represent what the sensor captures, though. There may also be differences in the RAW file formats between the cameras (in fact, there usually is) that can account for differences in size. Regardless, the sensors are the same piece of hardware… that’s not contested… and the RAW files, if calibrated to the same profile, should look virtually the same (with minor variations in lens quality, sensor manufacturing tolerances, etc).

– Matthew

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Natalia

This review kind of made my mind and I finally bought today D5300. I tried it out at the store and it will take some time to get use to go to info all the time to see how many images left and all the settings. I was told that I have 14 days to return it if i really don’t like it with no questions asked. It seems to be more like a toy and I see why people can call it for beginners but I am sorry but since when $800 is for beginners. I don’t know:)

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Matthew Gore

Hi Natalia,

When it comes to the quality of the pictures the D5300 will produce, it is definitely NOT a toy :) It was only about 5 years ago, after all, that I shot professionally (and so did everyone else) with cameras that had half the megapixel count and much worse digital noise, etc. The body is a little on the small side, but that can have its advantages, as I mentioned above.

I’m sure you’ll enjoy it… sounds like you made the right choice.

– Matthew

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Rene

Thanks for this comparison. I’m currently shooting with the D90. But it is outdated now in terms of low light photography. So I will upgrade.

After reading this I tend to the 7100 because I am occasionally using remote flash and also fast sync. The two wheels and the bigger optical view are other arguments. I need to make up my mind if the lighter body, the Wifi, or the GPS make up for this.

Thanks.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Rene,

After shooting with the D90, I think you may find it hard to move down to the D5300; it’s not obvious from looking at pictures, but the D5300 is significantly smaller… which makes it feel like a bit more of a toy when you’re used to a bigger body. The difference in width is probably only about 1cm, but you’ll feel it.  The D7100 is almost the exact same size as the D90.

At least, this is a problem I’ve had (although it was when I was thinking about buying the D7000). But I have big hands… so this might not be as much of a concern for everyone. It’s one more thing to keep in mind, though. I’d lean towards the D7100 :)

– Matthew

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Rene

Well, I now went into a store and tried both cameras. In fact, the D7100 is even more bulky than my D90, while the D5300 feels light. The lighter camera suits my style of photography far better, so I very much tend towards the D5300.

I have only AF-S lenses, so the missing motor does not matter. Also I did not find the viewfinder as terrible as people say. I found in fact lighter than the dimmed view in the D7100.

My remaining problem is the flash. Besides not being able to be master, there is also no FV lock. This makes it impossible to photograph e.g. my wife with automatic flash and eyes open. The iTTL measuring flash close her eyes immediately. I would not like to go back to old school manual modes.

Hmmm …

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Ariel Lim

Hi Rene,

Regarding your problem with eyes closing with iTTL. Well there is a very simple trick that worked well for me. Have your wife close her eyes first then count 123 and at 3 let her open her eyes and sync your shutter with it. It should work well all the time. Good for groups pictures too. I often use this. And worked well.

Regards,

Ariel

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Natalia

Thank you so much for your review! There so many new technologies since my D80 and I am so confused:) Well this review helped to move my hand on buying D5300 but I am still not sure about access to function through menu on D5300 instead of just pressing buttons and adjust like on D7100. I guess I just need to try it out at the store and see how inconvenient it would be go to menu every time.

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Matthew Gore

Hi Natalia,

Glad you found it helpful :)  I’ve found that as long as you spend a lot of time using your camera and getting familiar with it, the controls become pretty intuitive and quick. In the case of the D5300, there’s a dedicated button (the “i” button on the back) that you can press to get instant access to the main camera settings (ISO is really the important one, there… since aperture and shutterspeed can be controlled via the main dial, depending on whether you’re shooting in Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, etc).

In any case, they’re both great cameras… it’s hard to go wrong with either.

– Matthew

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Natalia

Thank you Matthew, I was about to give up on D5300 but you right about getting used to controllers. I will give a chance to D5300 and trying it out at the store.

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