Is the Canon 60D Worth the Extra Cost?
Canon T3i vs 60D: The Canon T3i’s release so soon after that of the Canon 60D is cause for speculation. Canon seems to be exploring a fancy new business model in which they release a product and then shortly afterwards announce a similar, less expensive one that also has some slick new features, all but sealing the fate of the earlier product. We saw it happen with the Canon 1Ds Mark III and the subsequent 5D Mark II, then again (to a lesser degree) with the 5D Mark II and the Canon 7D (because of the latter’s superior AF system), with the 50D and subsequent Rebels T1i and T2i, and now it seems that the announcement of the Canon T3i threatens to do the same with the 60D. Let me say before anything else that the Canon 60D is still probably the superior camera, but it may be difficult for most entry level photographers to pass by the T3i to get to it. Let’s take a closer look at the details.
The Canon 60D was released into a market that was already dominated by the popular and inexpensive Canon Rebel T2i / 550D. The 60D, however, had dropped the magnesium alloy body of the 50D and previous x0D series models in favor of a lighter, consumer oriented polycarbonate body. It also sported the same 18 megapixel sensor as the T2i, the same ISO range, the same number of focus points, and the same video capabilities. To the average consumer, the major differences were that the 60D had a spiffy new articulated LCD, a somewhat sturdier feeling body, and slightly faster shooting frame rates and shutter speeds. The 60D also had the often overlooked (by me) advantage of wireless strobe control without the addition of the Canon ST-E2 transmitter.
Rear view of the Canon 60D (left) and Canon T3i (right). Both cameras now feature an articulated LCD.
Enter (4 months later) the Canon Rebel T3i (also known as the 600D). The latest incarnation of the Rebel appears on the scene with the same high resolution, articulated LCD as the 60D, integrated wireless strobe control, new shooting modes, a host of in-camera processing “creative” options, and perhaps most significantly in the video department are cropping mats (to preview different aspect ratios on the LCD while recording) and… digital zoom.
“Digital zoom” has always been a dirty word in the past; we’ve seen it on camcorders and point and shoot digital cameras since the end of the 1990s. Digital zoom traditionally has involved using the same captured information from the sensor and simply cropping in, basically magnifying a lower resolution portion of the frame, which caused a significant degradation of quality. So, if the full sensor captured 1 megapixel, for example, the cropped image might only be displaying a small portion of that information… perhaps .5 or .3 megapixels, but with the pixels enlarged to fill the screen.
The digital zoom of the Canon Rebel T3i is a different story, and it’s actually an ingenious use of the extraordinarily high resolution sensor designed for the still camera. The highest resolution that our HDTVs can display today is 1080p, which is 1920 x 1080 pixels, just a hair over 2 megapixels. The T3i’s sensor, as we know, is 18 megapixels, so even when the highest resolution video is captured, only a small part of the available information from the sensor is being used. Because the sensor has such high resolution, the digital zoom can simply make use of a smaller area of the sensor to capture the video, and there will still be plenty of receptors in the area to provide the full 2 megapixel resolution of 1080p.
Beyond the items mentioned above, the Canon T3i is very much like the T2i, which was already quite similar to the 60D. Take a look at the chart below to see the details:
| Canon Rebel T3i | Canon 60D | Canon Rebel T2i / 550D | |
|---|---|---|---|
 |  |  | |
| Amazon Price (body) | $699 | $999 | $699 |
| B&H Price | $699 | $949 | $629 |
| Body Material | Polycarbonate, Fiberglass and Stainless Steel | Polycarbonate, Aluminum, Fiberglass, and Stainless Steel | Polycarbonate, Fiberglass and Stainless Steel |
| LCD Size / Resolution | 3.0" 1,040,000 pixels | 3.0" 1,040,000 pixels | 3.0" 1,040,000 pixels |
| LCD Articulated? | Yes | Yes | No |
| Sensor Size | 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) | 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) | 14.9 x 22.3mm (APS-C) |
| Crop Factor | 1.6x | 1.6x | 1.6x |
| Sensor Resolution | 18 Megapixels | 18 Megapixels | 18 Megapixels |
| ISO Range | 100-6400 +12800 | 100-6400 +12800 | 100-6400 +12800 |
| Total AF Focus Points | 9 | 9 | 9 |
| Cross-Type AF Sensors | 1 | 9 | 1 |
| AF Light Level Range | -.05 to +18 EV | -.05 to +18 EV | -.05 to +18 EV |
| Metering System | 63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative 9% Center Weighted 4% Spot | 63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative 6.5% Center Weighted 2.8% Spot | 63 Zone Point Linked Evaluative 9% Center Weighted 4% Spot |
| Exposure Compensation | 1/2 or 1/3 stops | 1/2 or 1/3 stops via thumb dial | 1/2 or 1/3 stops |
| Max Frame Rate : RAW (14-bit) | 3.7 | 5.3 fps | 3.7 |
| Max Burst Duration RAW (at highest frame rate) | 6 | 16 | 6 |
| Max Burst Duration JPG (at highest frame rate) | 34 | 58 | 34 |
| Shutter Speed Range | 1/4000th - 30 sec. +bulb | 1/8000th - 30 sec. +bulb | 1/4000th - 30 sec. +bulb |
| Maximum Flash Sync Shutter Speed (standard flash) | 1/200th sec. | 1/250th sec. | 1/200th sec. |
| HD Video Resolutions | 1080p, 720p | 1080p, 720p | 1080p, 720p |
| Available HD Video Frame Rates | PAL and NTSC 24/25, 30 at 1080p 24/25, 30, 60 at 720p | PAL and NTSC 24/25, 30 at 1080p 24/25, 30, 60 at 720p | PAL and NTSC 24/25, 30 at 1080p 24/25, 30, 60 at 720p |
| Firmware Sidecar Available | Under Development | Under Development | Under Development |
| Media Type | SD / SDHC / SDXC | SD / SDHC / SDXC | SD / SDHC / SDXC |
| Weight | 570g (including battery) | 675g (body only) | 530g (with battery and SD card) |
| Viewfinder Coverage | 95% 0.87x magnification | 96% Frame, .95x magnification | 95% 0.87x magnification |
| Built-In Wireless Strobe Control | Yes | Yes | No |
.
Benefits of the Canon 60D
In opening this article I mentioned that the Canon 60D is still a better camera than the T3i, but I may not have made it obvious in the following paragraphs, so let me explain why.
The Canon 60D will primarily benefit one type of photographer: the action photographer. Although the two cameras in question have the same number of focusing points, the points are not created equal. The T3i, like the T2i, has a single cross-type focusing point in the center, while all 9 of the 60D’s focusing points are cross-type, giving it faster and more reliable AF performance, especially for off-center subjects. To capture high speed objects, the 60D also features a top shutter speed of 1/8000th of a second and top flash sync speed of 1/250th, as opposed to the 1/4000th and 1/200th of the T3i. And while the T3i can capture 3.7 frames per second, the Canon 60D can manage 5.3, giving 60D shooters 3 extra pictures in every 2-second burst.
This is not to suggest that you can’t shoot action with the T3i; you can. You’ll simply have a higher percentage of good shots with the 60D.
I spent much of last evening playing around with a 60D and a T2i (I don’t have access to a T3i yet), and I find that the 60D really does feel significantly better in the hand. It feels solid and comfortable, and it also has the thumb wheel for exposure compensation, probably my favorite Canon feature of all time. Both cameras, however, feel much better than the top point and shoot, though, at least to my fingers. And there is also the fact that 60D shooters don’t have to tolerate having “REBEL” printed across the front of their cameras. How embarrassing for us Americans.
Conclusion
Because the 60D is so precariously perched between the powerhouse Canon 7D and the enormously popular Rebel series (not to mention competition from the Nikon D7000), it’s not surprising that in the few months since it hit the shelves, its price has already dropped from $1100 to $899… just $100 more than the T3i (update 6/18/11: the price has since gone back down to $899 with an instant rebate, but the body only is hard to find in stock). With only $100 difference in price, it seems almost foolish to pass up the 60D, unless:
- you’ve never used a DLSR before and need the beginner features of the T3i (in camera guide and program shooting modes)
- you plan to take a lot of video and really think you’ll use the T3i’s digital zoom or video snapshots
- you primarily shoot portraits, landscapes, or moderate paced action and don’t want to spend $100 on features you won’t use.
You may also want to consider the Rebel T2i if the video features are not important to you (keep in mind that in all three cameras, video is primarily a manual-focus operation (though slow AF is available by pressing the shutter button half-way). If you don’t mind spending a couple hours with the manual, don’t care about an articulated LCD (or are concerned about its durability), the T2i is a virtually identical camera and the body costs a mere $675, at this point.
As usual, please let me know if you have any questions or comments!
A friend of mine has just purchased a 60D, this is his upgrade from an XTi. He received it yesterday and has noticed that the noise when he takes a picture is extremely loud compared to his XTi. Is this normal? He says it is at least 10 times louder. Is is possible his new camera would in fact be defective? Any help is appreciated.
Any recommendations on a good, yet easy to use photoshop program to enhance my T3i photos? I wanted to get your opinion before I invested in any particular one. Thanks!
I have a Canon EOS Rebel T3i but am in the beginnings of playing with this thing. The main reason for getting the camera was for pics of the kids and family and my daughters senoir pics, also my husband Drag races, I don’t know camera settings lingo and in the most simple terms could someone help me with setting my camera up for drag racing daytime and drag racing night time and depth of field for outdoor settings? Would love to also know how (if you can?) and how you can save certain settings so that you don’t have to reset every time you begin to take pics? Also video?
Hi Tina,
Daytime pictures of action (drag racing for example) will be easier than night time. If you want to get a good shot of the car coming off the line, (front wheels in the air, etc.) you’ll probably want to use a fast shutter speed. Start by putting the camera in Shutter Priority mode (Tv on your T3i) and rolling the dial at the top until you are at 1/500th or faster (1/1000, etc.). Take a picture and see if it turns out ok (bright enough). If so, you’ve found your starting point. If there is some motion blur, increase the shutter speed one click and try again. Practice taking pictures of other cars first so you’ll know what settings to use when your husband is on the line.
For another neat effect, you could try panning. Lower your shutter speed to around 1/60th and move the camera horizontally as his car drives by. Take the picture when he’s directly in front of you on the track, but don’t stop panning sideways when you take the picture, keep moving the camera until the shot is totally done. Done correctly (with a little practice) the car will be in focus, but the background will be blurred to give the feeling of motion.
Nighttime action shots require fast shutter speeds just like daytime ones, but they require a fast lens (f/1.2, f/1.8, f/2.0, etc.) to let additional light in. If you are using the lens that came with your camera, you may be disappointed. Those lenses aren’t usually fast enough to get decent low light action shots. Luckily, most drag strips aren’t really that dark. They are often lit up fairly well, but if the one you are at isn’t, and it is fairly dark, you may have to use a flash…one that you buy separately.
You’ll have to provide a little more information on the depth of field question. Are you wanting a shallow DoF, where the subject is nice and sharp, but the background is blurred? If so, that requires that same type of “fast” lens with a wide aperture (f/1.2, f/1.8, f/2.0, etc.). An inexpensive way of dipping your foot in that pool is the 50mm f/1.8 for just over $100. It’s a favorite among the Canon crowd who love that “Bokeh” effect.
Bill
Hi Tina,
That’s a pretty tall order, but Bill has summed up a few strategies pretty nicely.
I shoot action a little differently. Instead of using shutter priority during the day, I use Aperture Priority (almost all of the time)… that’s “Av” on your mode dial. If you set that to the lowest number possible (with your lenses, that will probably be 3.5 or 5.6, depending whether your lenses are zoomed out all the way or not).
When you do that, your camera will then automatically set the shutter-speed to the fastest setting possible that will correctly expose the picture. When you turn your mode dial away from Av, those settings will be saved, too.
As long as you’re on the site, you might want to take a look at my article “The Three Basics of Photography“, which will help you a lot more than I can is a reply like this
- Matthew
Hey Matthew – quick question. Using the Av method, with it set as wide as possible, to get the fastest shutter speed, would you want to set a high ISO, or leave it on Auto? On Auto, would the camera possibly try a mix of both settings, causing a slower shutter speed?
Thanks for reminding me, Bill
My method for shooting in Av mode will give you the fastest shutter speed and correct exposure for a given ISO setting.
I don’t use auto ISO, though a lot of people like it. For my method of shooting in Av mode, I set the ISO to 200 on a bright, sunny day, and I set it higher at night… I usually don’t go higher than 1600, though.
So maybe this isn’t the simplest way to work, but it gives good results. Of course, if you want the simplest way to shoot, just set the camera to the “Sports” mode on the dial
Thank ya’ll so much. This helps more than you know. I refer back to your comments all the time when taking photos.
And any new thoughts on this are very much appreciated.
For other explanations….
I do have the original lens that came with the camera. I do want to buy a new lens but not really sure which lens to get for the range of photos I am taking. Mainly the drag racing.
The night time shots are the hardest for me with the original lens, I can’t seem to find a happy medium. There is good light at the drag strip but maybe too much light. My camera focus’s on the light sometimes. Its the blurring the cars. I am trying to work around it.
If you have a facebook you can add me (Tina Scott in Blossom, Texas and The Paris Drag Strip in Paris, Texas) and see the photos that I have been taking and maybe give me some tips.
I also want to take some senior and graduation photos and family photos in the coming days for some friends and family, any tips would be great. All will be outdoors.
I really appreciate all the help, it has made this learning experience so much better. Thank you soo much!
This artical has been very helpful. But I was expecting more on video shooting. I am planning to buy a DSLR 80% for shooting video. I have read that the Canon 7D shoots film like video… can’t afford so it gonna be th 60D or T3i. Which should I get for shooting film like videos and what lens is best for shooting videos?
thanks in advance.
Hi Kirk,
The 7D, 60D, and T3i all use the same sensor and shoot video at the same resolutions and frame rates; for video, they are identical when it comes to image quality. None of them have an auto-focus system that is worth using while shooting video.
The T3i has the advantage of being able to shoot video with a special type of digital zoom. The camera will shoot using the same capture resolution, but using a smaller part of the large sensor, so it is effectively zooming in.
Beyond that, the cameras are very similar for video. Check out the MagicLantern firmware sidecar options to see if there’s anything that you’ll need, too.
MATT,
THANK YOU FOR THE QUICK RESPONSE. This information is very helpful. Think I’ ll get the T3i.
I currently have a Canon Digital Rebel xti and am looking to purchase either a T3i or T2i. I mostly want to take pictures of my kids. Getting close up/portraits is a desire as well as general action pics of kids. The shooting video is nice and as I understand both cameras have that capablity with the t3i having digital zoom. What is the advantage of the digital zoom exactly? Also I read that the t3i can act as a control module for off camera ettl flash and the t2i can’t. What exactly is the importance of that? Would that make a better portrait pic. I’m not a professional photographer and would like to know the differences of those two capablilties that the t3i has over the t2i before purchasing. I don’t want to buy the t3i if the t2i will do. Thanks!
Digital zoom allows you to use a smaller part of the camera’s sensor for shooting video, so basically, it just enlarges everything…. it makes it appear that you’re closer to the subject. Traditionally, digital zoom simply cropped off the edges of the video frames and enlarged what was there to fill the frame, so you’d be seeing a lower resolution image at a larger size. With the digital zoom on the T3i, though, the camera captures the video at the same resolution, just from a smaller part of the sensor (full HD video is only 2 megapixels, and the sensor on the camera is 18 megapixels, so it has some room to play around with where it wants to draw those pixels from). There is still some loss of quality with the T3i’s digital zoom, but not as much as you’d expect with traditional digital zoom.
Using off-camera flash is very important for portraiture. Moving the flash off of the camera allows you to sculpt the light and shadow on your subject, instead of just getting that blast of light (that is the reason most people don’t like flash photography). Think about where the shadow of a person’s nose falls when you shoot a picture with the flash on the camera… since the light is straigh-on, there’s hardly any shadow at all. If you move that flash to one side a few feet, the shadow will be cast to the opposite side of the face, and the far side of the face will also have some shading… both of which provide shape to the image of the face.
The wireless eTTL system isn’t necessary for using off camera flash, but it’s one of the easiest ways, and it’s an inexpensive option. There are a variety of other triggering systems available, but any system that provides the same eTTL functionality will cost $200-400. Of course, you’d still need a secondary flash unit too, like a 430ex or 580ex.
- Matthew
Hi Matthew, Alfred
I joined this community for two reasons.
1) I just bought a t3i and its my first DSLR
2) After reading all the above discussions, I am very disappointed with my purchase.
Is t3i worth a buy ? I can still return it and get an upgrade.
You guys do a great job, in the way you have managed this forum, please suggest me.
I like capturing cars passing by and also kids in action, and i do understand that it’s the person holding the camera which restricts the camera capabilities. But still what should i opt ( t3i or 60D ) ? and what lenses will be the best.
I currently have basic kit lens , and 55-250 mm lens.
I’ll be eagerly waiting for your reply .
Hi Anky,
First of all, welcome
Before anything else, what is it particularly that you’re disappointed about with the T3i? Is there something that you’ve experienced with the camera that bothers you?
Camera choice is really a personal preference in many way; I happen to like the larger size of the 60D, while some photographers prefer the fact that the T3i is more compact and lightweight. Currently, the T3i is about $230 cheaper than the 60D, too, which is significant… so I don’t think there’s a simple answer.
- Matthew
Thanks a lot Matthew for your prompt and quick response. ( you rock )
Yeah few things bothers me at the moment,
1) Captured few moving objects, as in cars on freeway, The result to my surprise was a blurred image.. again may be its just me or this has got to do with fps ? ( i do need photography classes in the earlier case )
2) Night shots are significantly noisy(ISO 6400, exposure levels etc). I don’t know its just me or the limitation with camera.
3) To be honest, one major factor is that I got my deal (t3i + 18-55mm + 55-200 , 8gb class 10 SDHC card + lowerpro case) for $1005, Which is equivalent to EOS 60d + 18-135mm deal online.
I can understand that, My 3rd point drags the topic somewhere else, which is not relevant to this thread, but all this really bothers me. Thanks again
Hi Anky,
Photos that appear “blurry” can be caused by 3 main things: 1) the subject is moving too fast for the shutter speed you’re using 2) there was too much camera shake for the shutter speed you’re using or 3) the camera was out-of-focus. There are usually differences, but it’s too much to explain here…If you’d like to email me one of your photos, I can help you tell what’s going on. However, if it’s one of the first two reasons, it’s not the camera’s fault… and even if it’s the 3rd (the 60D does have a somewhat better AF system), it still may be the lens or the selected AF mode that’s to blame rather than the camera.
No matter what camera you buy, shots at ISO6400 are going to be noisy; some cameras are better than others (but the 60D is not better than the T3i), but it’s still going to be the lesser of two evils. To get better performance, you’ll probably need lenses that let in more light. In fact, better lenses will probably help you with the issue of blurred images, too. Compare your 18-55mm lens (at 55mm) to a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens, for example. At 55mm, your lens’ maximum aperture is f/5.6. An f/1.8 lens lets in more than 8-times as much light (3 f-stops).
I can certainly understand the disappointment in finding a good deal online after you’ve already purchased something.
If you haven’t already… you might want to read my article: 3 Basics of Photography.
- Matt
Hi Anky,
Take your T3i outside today and put it in Tv mode which is shutter priority mode. That means you get to set the shutter speed, and the camera will adjust the aperture and ISO as necessary. Set your ISO to auto, and set your shutter speed (by rolling the wheel near the shutter button) until the shutter speed is 1/250th of a second.
That should be fast enough to stop motion and still low enough that it won’t take a crazy aperture mode to compensate for the lack of light. If it’s a sunny day, the ISO shouldn’t go too high which will keep noise in the photo to a minimum. That also means you could use a higher/faster shutter speed like 1/500th or higher to really stop those speeding cars!
Let us know if you still see blurry shots with a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second.
Bill
Yes, camera choice can be very personal. I’m a female, and on the very short side of female. Even the t3i is very large for my hands. It simply isn’t an option for me to go any larger on the camera size, I would never carry it around.
So something for those with small hands to think about. the 60d is significantly weightier and larger for those with small hands.
Hi Selin,
Thanks for the input
I find that the T3i is actually a little more comfortable in my hands than the T2i was, incidentally, even though they’re the same size… probably due to slightly modified ergonomics.
For those who are looking for something quite compact, I’m very impressed with the new Canon PowerShot G1 X, which has large sensor (about the same size as the T3i’s), but it’s truly a pocket camera. Of course, it’s not an SLR, but it looks like it will be a good second camera.
Super helpful…thanks so much! I’m going for the Canon 60D. I’ve had a ‘rebel’ for the last so many years and am ready for a bit more.
Thanks for posting this up! answered all my questions
Glad you found it helpful
Hello. I am looking to invest in either the T3i or 60D. I will be using this camera to take professional quality pictures of my 8 month old son. I really want vibrant, precise photos that will not be blurry– ones that will capture every detail of his portrait, whether posed or action shots. Can you help me to decide which camera to purchase? To go one step further, because I am looking to invest in only one lens (for now), what one would you suggest for my needs?
Thank you! Lindsey
Hi Lindsey,
When it comes to image quality, both the T3i and 60D are identical for all practical purposes. The AF on the 60D is a little better, so that may be a consideration, but both can capture higher quality images than most of us will let them (ie, WE are the limiting factors, not the cameras).
This is both good and bad news, I guess. The problem is that if you buy a great camera and use it like a point-and-shoot, your images are still going to pretty much look like point-and-shoot pictures. So, although getting a new camera is a good first step, even getting a professional level camera (5D Mark II) isn’t going to give you professional quality pictures unless you know how to use it.
It also means that if you’re willing to put in a little work, you’ll be able to take photos that are just as good (or better) than those you’d get from your local portrait studio. If portraits are your interest, then you should also invest in a flash (like the 430ex ii) that can be used like a studio strobe.
As for the lens… that’s tricky. I’d recommend a prime, large aperture lens (like a 50mm f1.8 or f1.4, or 85mm f1.8) for portraiture. They’re great for portraits and low-light, but they’re not going to be the best all-around shooting lenses, and you’ll probably also want to use the camera for other things. You might want to take a look at my lens recommendation section —> at the “all around kit” lenses.
That said, I’d recommend the T3i because it will give you a little extra money to play with to buy something like a 50mm f1.8 lens in addition to a more versatile one. Both cameras are otherwise excellent; I prefer the feel of the larger 60D (and its longer battery life) but it doesn’t sound like your shooting style would benefit from the 60D’s faster shooting capabilities.
Hope that helps; let me know if there’s anything I can clarify!
- Matthew
Thank you, Matthew!
I’m definitely going to take a photography class. Even though I am a beginner, and plan to use the camera for personal use only, I really do want to master the use of whatever camera I choose. I am nervous that if I purchase the T3i, I will regret not investing the $100-$200 extra dollars to purchase the 60D. After reading your articles, it seems as though the 60D has the edge for fast shots and the T3i excels in it’s video capabilities. I do not intend to use the camera for video. How, “fast” is “fast” for the action shots? I guess I’m having trouble understanding the difference in what you could shoot with the T3i v. 60D in terms of action shots (where you could notice the difference in the fps.
I read your article on the best lens to choose– thank you for the recommendation. I did not realize that the 18-55mm actually produces better quality photos than the 18-135– I never would have guessed that. Would the 18-55mm be a good base lens? I’m not sure how to decide between the 55-250 or the 50mm f1.8 (in addition to the 18-55mm that I will buy with the camera)?
Sorry for all of the questions!
Hi Lindsey,
Let me try to answer your questions in Matt’s absence. Matt can chastise me later if I lead you astray.
The 60D’s AF and faster fps (5fps vs 3fps of the T3i) means you’ll miss less shots. Though the realistic difference is marginal. But if it’s critical, then go for the faster camera. Keep in mind that the SD Card is a factor in the speed as well. Get the fastest SD card (XC, I believe) you can get.
To visualize “marginal” vs. a “significant” difference, the difference in speed between 7D and the 60D is 8fps vs 5fps (marginal IMO), but the difference between 7D and the T3i (or the 5D Mk II) is 8fps vs 3fps (significant). The difference between 1D Mk 4 and the 7D is 10fps vs 8fps (marginal IMO).
I’ve switched from high-speed shooting to single-shot mode, even on the 7D. Mostly because I shoot portraits. I even use this mode with fast moving object like toddlers and cats (though my cat actually likes the attention and will pose
). So it’s a matter of “purpose”: I’m used to waiting for a decisive moment, though I do use high-speed shooting at weddings on occasion.
Lenses: though the 18-55mm lens is a good “all around” lens, the reason for the 50mm f/1.8 recommendation is to be able to take pictures in low-light situations when flash is no appropriate. Also, the larger aperture will produce better portraits by separating the subject from the background/foreground (an effect known as “bokeh“). The 18-55mm zoom has a maximum aperture of f/3.5 wide open (18mm) and f/5.6 on the long end (55mm). These apertures, though they produce some bokeh, may not produce a pleasing one. Also, they are not wide enough for low-light shooting as previously mentioned.
Hope this helps shed some light. I tend to be a bit long-winded.
Cheers,
Alfred
Thanks Alfred, I just got back to Florida this evening
And that’s pretty much what I would have said, too.
Even when I’m shooting action, I rarely shoot bursts of photos anyway; I’d rather rely on my own reflexes and anticipation of events than the machine-gun method of hoping that the camera gets a good shot if I shoot enough… though it can be helpful now and then.
- Matthew
Lindsey, MATTHEW, Alfred, et. al.,
I asked this very question a few short months ago regarding T3i vs 60D. I decided on the 60D and love it to this point. However, MATTHEW (got that wrong last time oops) is absolutely right regarding what makes a great photo. You will run into more than a few “pix snobs ” who think you are no kind of photographer unless you drop 5K and pop for Canon “L” lenses…..wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong wrong. The thing is this, are you going to print with your 5K job, in which case all the sensor settings are almost moot. Same if you are only going to view on monitor….is it true HighHigh Def?…If not then sensor size and yadi, yadi, yadi mean nothing. Buy the cheaper camera T3 unless you NEED HD movies instead of the 60D or 50D or other closely priced model. Besides, 3 years ago the ‘top of the line’ couldn’t do what the ‘cheapos’ do now…so that kind of talk is all hot air.
Get a solid entry level Rebel (which is NOT called Rebel outside USA, no?) and affordable lenses then LEARN TO LOVE TAKING GOOD PICTURES! Spend money on speedlights, remotes etc., and you will be fine.
I promise a true professional photographer could pose a professional model and take better pictures with a Coolpix or SureShot than a ‘wanna-be tech talking pic-snob.’ Most modern equipment in phenomenal so don’t let anyone steer you off that path. I am upgrading with various lenses and and shopping smart, which is a little cheaper buy gets me taking lots of pictures. As I heard one guy say recently regarding those snobs, “…sell a couple photos that actually get published, then go out and spend $5K on a Canon 1D (or whatever the latest and greatest is).”
For most of us photography is a FUN and INTERESTING HOBBY….let it be THAT at a reasonable cost. Not every coin collector has an amazing set of all proof $20 gold coins valued at 50K +. Some collect state quarters and love it just as much. The same applies to camera equipment.
Thanks to all who have responded to an initial post of mine and good luck to all!
Thank you, everyone! I really appreciate your comments. Because I’m new to photography, I’m going to limit the number of lenses that I buy at this point (until I get out and practice). I’m not going to invest in the L series lenses, but am sure that I will want to in the future. Are they compatible with both cameras? Thought I should ask this before I make the camera investment.
Also, because I will be shooting a lot of portraits, with the blur background, what lens would you recommend? 35mm f/2.1?
I’ll try not to bother you all too much with more questions until I do additional reserach:)
I REALLY appreciate your feedback. I can’t thank you enough!
Lindsey,
For portraits I would recommend the 50mm f/1.4 or the 85mm f/1.8. You can also use, as an alternative, the EF-S 60mm f/2.8 macro lens. It is a very sharp lens and renders great colors (http://fauxtojournalist.com/2010/11/macro-lens-for-macro-photos/). The only thing you will contend with is the autofocus. Anything beyond three feet away will most likely require manual focus. The lens hunts too much after about three feet. This is normal macro lens behavior.
As far as compatibility is concerned, any EF-S lens will ONLY fit on crop sensor cameras. It will not fit full frame cameras like the 5D Mk II. This may not be a problem because 90% of the Canon camera line up is crop sensor anyway.
Cheers,
Alfred
Lindsey,
This photo was taken with the 60mm macro lens.
Alfred,
I agree almost entirely. I’d say that the 50mm f1.8 is a good alternative to the f1.4; the bokeh isn’t as smooth, but its fine for anyone who isn’t a bokeh aficionado, only 2/3rds a stop darker, and it’s a fraction of the cost.
Also, a 60mm macro shouldn’t hunt at normal focusing distances where there’s decent light and contrast. When it does hunt (like any lens will sometimes) it will take longer to correct itself because it has a longer range of travel… but I’ve never had any problem with the Canon 60mm or my Nikon 105mm micro for that matter, so if you’re having an issue with yours, you might want to have it checked out at a repair shop to see if an element is out of alignment.
- Matthew
Matt,
My lens eventually focuses but it takes a looooooooong time. I also have the camera set to stop focusing when the lens has a problem. So I just manually focus at those times.
So I guess somebody lied to me about the macro lens.
Thanks,
Alfred
Excellent reply/information, very realistic and practical. Thanks
Hi Matt,
Loved the review I was myself stuck in a dilema, either to buy the 600D or 60D. I finally bought the 60D 3 days ago and I’m very happy but I’m still not 100% if I should keep it. I was recording some video in low light and I seem to get lots of noise at high ISO and when I look at other 60D low light videos on youtube they don’t seem that grainy with the same setting i used.
Any tips or suggestion? Because I love shooting photos and videos that’s why I got the 60D
Cheers,
Nick
Hey Nick,
Sorry for the delay; I’ve been out of town and away from internet access.
Unfortunately, I don’t do much with video, so I can’t offer a lot of help here. You may try uploading some of your own videos to youtube; it’s possible that during their conversion process, they use a noise-reduction algorithm by default…. that may be the difference that you’re seeing. Noise is caused by a few differnt things: high ISO, slow shutter speeds, and hot weather… all of these things contribute to a hotter sensor and more noise; even shooting long videos makes it worse in some cases… so it’s hard to make a direct comparison.
I don’t know what settings you’re using, but you might want to try shooting with manual settings, and see if that improves the quality. good luck!
- Matthew
Hey matt,
thanks for your reply. I have another question, I currently have a sigma 18-200mm but no IS or HSM or USM on it. And I’m looking everywhere for a lens that can replace it, I went from canon to sigma to tamron, my eyes are on a 17-70mm sigma OS HSM. But I want your opinion on which according to you can replace my 18-200mm lens.
Nick
hello my name is michael and im 18 and i will be gettin a canon 60d for my birthday cause i picked it over the t3i because the t3i didnt come with the 18mm-135mm lens that the 60d came with ,
a little about myself im a young music artist and i am looking to make myself more professional
my question is will it be worth it cause i will be using it to shoot music videos and do photo shoots ?
Hi Mike,
Congrats on getting the new camera
The 60D is a better camera for taking still photos, but when it comes to video, there isn’t a whole lot of difference, actually… they’re both really good. The lens issue is tricky; I generally don’t recommend the 18-135mm lens because it is not the sharpest in the Canon line up, but for video, it shouldn’t make any difference (even full HD 1080p video is only about 2 megapixels). One of the things that film-makers usually like about shooting with SLRs is that they can have very shallow focus, so that the subject is in focus but the background is blurry… which creates separation and allows you to direct the viewer’s attention on specific parts of the frame. The 18-135 will be able to do this to some degree, especially at the 135mm end, but not as much as some other lenses that have larger maximum apertures (ie, f/2.8 instead of f/5.6). So, you might also think about getting a lens like the 50mm f1.8, which is great for this sort of thing.
If you’re not already aware, also keep in mind that SLRs, in general, don’t really focus very well when shooting video. They’re extremely slow and inaccurate, so most people shoot video with manual focus (my experience is that Nikon’s cameras, like the D5100, are faster, but neither are actually very good). The exceptions to this rule are the Sony SLTs, like the a35 and a55 (compared here). They auto-focus just as well in video mode as they do when shooting stills (because they use an electronic viewfinder and don’t need the flip a mirror out of the way). Canon SLRs ARE the most popular in the film industry for shooting video… they’re really awesome as long as you know what you’re getting into. Sony’s cameras, though, operate more like a standard video camera.
With all of that said… the 60D is an awesome camera for photography and video, especially since it is currently pretty inexpensive, and at only $899 for the body, I’d always buy it over the T3i.
thank u very much this is very helpful but i have another quick question, is the t3i really almost the same as the canon 60d as in picture quality and video quality?
Hi Mike,
Yes, they are identical for all practical purposes; both cameras use the same 18 megapixels sensor, and they both use the same Digic-4 processor. They both record video with the same mkv codec, at the same resolutions. If there are any differences, they are minor, and software related… based on tonal curves and color handling, all of which can be modified anyway. All in all, the image quality should be identical; the differences are in body style, AF system, and still photo shooting speed with the 60D.
- Matthew
thank u very much MATTT great help:) also this is a amazing website u run by the way
Mike,
I am starting to get into photography and am blow away with info overload! Like lot’s of hobbyists and wanna-be semi-pros, I’m looking into the Canon T3i vs 60D (vs 7D as possible, way expensive upgrade).
I really don’t care about “rebel” stamped on my camera if it works well. I believe the product should speak of the artist instead of the equipment. A dude named Picaso did OK for himself using a pencil on paper which is less than 18 megapixels, right?
Anyway, I want to shoot portraits and semi-pro models with eye looking to expanding from there. I know the 60D is faster burst and fpm but I am NOT shooting NASCAR or drag racing for publication…if it works better great, but I don’t NEED it right now.
I am intrigued by each cameras video capability….articulated screen is cool. But I read the 60D has a noise issue with regards to focus motors being heard on video. 1) is this true? 2) how is it a manual focus video has ANY motor sounds at all.
Who knows, since they have HD vid function included, I might use it instead of my simple canon video camera which is a little too small to actually handle easily.
FInal 2 issues….First, I am a big guy with largeer hands and small set ups are almost too small…I don’t mind weight and prefer size, which goes for button and controls and everything.
Last, I had Canon 35mm film camera, remember them? Still have a couple lenses left over and wonder if these will fit and should they affcect my decision for camera and possible lens lit. 2 lenses are: EF 35-80mm 1:4 – 5.6 (Power Zoom) and EF 80-200mm 1:4.5 – 5.6 ii (manual)
Please help me pick….I’m leaning to higher function 60D due to better burst and higher fps but video noise bothers me if issue. And a little scared of T3i smaller size lighter weight. Or should I chuck them both and cough up the cash for a 7D which seems awesome! Maybe I’ll grow into it?
Love your answers to others, I hope you can help me! Thanks
Mike,
Sorry about all the typos and spelling errors from my posted question…I’m not as big of an idiot as I come off…..opps, should have spell checked. Big hands made tyipng harder as well. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it
Hey Coinguy,
Spelling errors are easy to ignore… being called Mike will take some getting used to
Neither camera has a focusing motor inside the camera; Canon has always used AF motors in the lens. This means that the focusing noise is very dependent on what lens you use. USM lenses can be nearly silent, while standard micro-motors can be pretty noisy. The microphone placement in the camera can make a little difference, too, but they’re both going to be somewhat noisy. The only real way to get around that is to use an external microphone, like one of these, that clip into the hot shoe on top of your camera.
That said, auto-focus on SLRs (and Canon in particular) is very slow and not particularly reliable. Since the mirror is locked up out of the way for video, the camera has to use a different AF system (contrast detect, rather than phase detect). Most people who use SLRs for any serious video project manual focus anyway, so there is no sound from a focusing motor anyway.
I’m about 6′ tall and have pretty big hands, too… and the Rebel series cameras are not particularly comfortable to me. You can improve that a bit with a battery grip (I do the same for all bodies, actually). That’s something that’s pretty subjective, though… you might just wander into a BestBuy and see how they feel in your hand.
I had Canon 35mm equipment, too… manual and autofocus. When Canon moved to autofocus, they changed their lens mount (Nikon kept their old one). So, manual focus FD lenses will not fit on EOS bodies. (I’m not familiar with the lenses you mention specifically, though). Any older EOS system lenses WILL fit onto the new digital SLRs, though.
The 7D is an awesome camera, but it costs almost twice as much as a 60D. If you need it (or just have the money to spend), then I’d certainly buy it… but it sounds like you’re not an action photographer, so it’s hard to imagine that it would really be necessary.
- Matthew
Hi: I have been thinking of upgrading my camera. I currently have a Rebel XT and pretty much do everything on automatic. My passion is macro floral photography, so I have the Canon 100mm macro lens (the BEST!). I have been blowing up my photos on canvas (gallery wrapped), from 18″ square up to 40″ square and then 36 x 48, etc. I have also been selling my canvasses at art fairs, etc. Now, although my photos look great, I am pretty much a camera idiot…I do any post processing with Aperture on the mac. Of the two, which would be a better camera for me and would either be that much different than the XT? Also, my understanding is that the higher pixels on both would be much better for large photos as opposed to the Rebel XT.
I do like the articulated screen, and I would definitely like to advance my camera skills. Also, I read somewhere that the 60D “left out” the micro AF feature (whatever that means…does the XT have it?). How would this affect my shooting?
Thanks!
Suzy
Hi Suzy,
I used to do some floral photography myself, though it’s been a while; they were more for documentary purposes than art, and not macro, though (you can see a few in the Memorial Gallery, link at right —-> ).
Anyway, you’re right… the 18 megapixel sensors should give you significantly better quality images with your enlargements, assuming that you use perfect technique when you’re shooting: tripod, cable-release, mirror lock-up, etc. Even with poor technique, you’ll get less pixelation, just not necessarily sharper images. In this regard, the T3i and 60D are on par with each other, they both have a great sensor, so they’ll both give you the same image quality. Keep in mind that when it comes to making large prints, once you get beyond a certain size, you expect the viewing distance to increase as well… so ultra-sharpness may not be so critical. I tend to think it’s a major concern up to about a 20″ print, and you’ll certainly see an improvement between an 18 megapixel and an 8 megapixel image at that size. If you shoot in RAW mode, you’ll also see improved tonal gradations, with smoother transitions.
If you’re shooting under controlled conditions, there may not be much point in spending the (little bit, at the moment) extra money on the 60D. The main advantage is that it has a better auto-focus system (all 9 focusing points are high quality, rather than just one of them on the T3i). However, if you don’t experience trouble focusing with your XT, you won’t with the T3i, either. The 60D can shoot faster, but again, this is rarely a concern with still-life work (although if you shoot insects, it may be an issue). It’s worth considering that the 60D body is currently on sale for only $899, if you can find it in stock, and it is generally a better camera than the T3i, so you might consider it just so that you’re not using an entry-level camera. The 60D is a little larger and more comfortable in my hand, but some photographers prefer a smaller camera anyway.
Micro-adjustments are available on some more expensive cameras. Basically, they allow you to fine tune the focus on each one of your lenses (the camera saves the info and switches when you change lenses). This isn’t usually necessary, actually, but sometimes with older lenses, the lens will focus just a little bit near or far, and this will allow you to fix the problem. The 7D has this feature… but it’s obviously about twice as expensive as the T3i. If you didn’t notice this problem with your XT, it’s unlikely that you’ll notice it with a 60D or T3i.
Regardless of which camera you decide on, you should learn to shoot in RAW mode, if you’re not doing it already. It makes a significant difference. However, I suppose that if you’re happy with how your images look… then whatever you’re doing is working
No need to fix it if it’s not broken.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any further questions
- Matthew
Thank you for your quick response. I am going to go to a camera store and look at both. Then I will pass this on to my husband. He is going to Burning Man so I thought I deserved an upgrade! I will let you know what I decide.
This is a great site!
Suzy
I am looking into D7000 and 60D, they keep saying D7000 is in the same class as 7D instead of 60D. I saw couple other reviews… but I am wondering how important and how big of a difference are those features on D7000, does it worth extra couple hundred?
Hi Ting Lik,
I’ve actually written a couple of articles on the subject myself…. http://www.lightandmatter.org/2010/equipment-reviews/nikon-d7000-vs-canon-7d-cheaper-and-better/
and http://www.lightandmatter.org/2010/equipment-reviews/canon-60d-vs-nikon-d7000-best-midrange-slrs/
The gist of all of that is that the D7000 is probably a little better than the 60D, but it is not comparable to the 7D. Unfortunately, the only way to decide whether the extra money is worth it is by weighing each feature against how you use your camera. Honestly, many photographers would be just fine with a T2i.
What do you shoot? What do you want to shoot?
- Matthew
I do mostly sport event, parties, and landscape. Hope these is not too wide of a range…
I am looking at Canon EOS 60D Digital SLR Camera with Canon EF-S 18-135mm IS lens + Canon 55-250mm f/4-5.6 Lens + Camera Bag + 8GB Memory Card for $1040, should I go for it? or should I wait and go for D7000?
Sorry for the delay; I’m on the road. That’s a great price for that package (at least, it is around here). Either camera would probably take a look at the lenses offered by Canon and Nikon, see which you like the best, and factor that into your decision. They’re both great cameras, both will cover your needs.
Thanks for the input Matt,
I think I am going to stick with 60D because of the overall cost seems to out weight the high ISO IQ, 39 AF points, and the .7 fps shutter speed advantage from D7000. (The only three features that holds me from 60D) I am very careful user, so the build “materials” don’t mean much to me. The remaining question for me is that whether I should sell the kit lens to get a good lens or just stick with this two… what do you think? What other accessories should I be looking into?
PS. One more question… It comes to my attention that most camera reviewers are Nikon fan, I am wondering what drive you toward Nikon instead of Canon or other brand? Just wondering…
Thanks for your patience with my responses this week; I just got off a plane from Denver to Seattle… and will have more time to get into this tomorrow.
Personally, I’m not a fan of Canon’s 18-135mm… the optical quality just isn’t where it should be. However, it’s a very useful zoom range, so I’d spend a little time with it and see what range you shoot with the most, and that will help you decide what lens to replace it with… there are lots of good choices.
As for camera reviewers being Nikon fans… I admit that I shoot Nikon, but also Canon. Nikon (particularly up until the late 1980s) has traditionally been THE professional 35mm camera (ok, Leica has always been elite, too… but not used by the masses). That really started changing in the 1980s, and by the late 1990s, I saw more Canons than Nikons, but a lot of older photographers have maintained brand loyalty. The fact remains that they’re both incredible camera systems… better than most photographers will get out of them… so it really is most important to pick a camera (any camera) and practice photography rather than worrying about the camera. A good photographer will be able to take amazing pictures with any of the cameras that we’ve discussed.
Matt,
So what exactly *do* you shoot with and with what lens(es), primarily? I’m sure you’ve collected gear throughout the year (hey, that rhymes!), but you must have settled down to a subset of that.
Just wondering…
Alfred
Question…I have never used an SLR camera before…I should go for the Ti3 rather than the 60d? What would be the best choice for telephoto zoom lens. I will be photographing portraits, landscapes, nature…lots of animals and birds at a distance. Would appreciate any suggestions. I was looking at the canon 55-250mm.
Both cameras will take some practice, but both can be used by a complete novice… and both are incredibly powerful tools. If wildlife (and action in general) will be an important part of your photography, I’d lean towards the 60D, especially since it now has the $100 rebate. The 60D is a little larger and more sturdily built, and has a better AF system.
The Bigger battery, brighter view finder and top LCD which displays current settings may also be considered in favour of 60D.
OK. I have a Sony a390 right now and am thinking about upgrading to a better camera. I do mainly bird photography but will also shoot wildlife and nature scenes. I’ve been looking into a couple cameras. Which do you think would fit me best. I am looking for a good camera that will keep me for at least 10 years. Here are my choices: Canon EOS rebel t3i, t2i, canon EOS 60d, and the Nikon D5100. Thanks!
Hello Joshua,
If photography is your main interest (rather than video), the T2i and T3i are almost identical; choose the T3i if you’ll use the wireless flash control and want the articulated LCD, but otherwise, there’s not much to distinguish one from the other. The D5100 is almost identical to the T3i, but it’s missing the wireless flash control.
The 60D has the advantage of a better auto-focus system than the other cameras, with 9 cross-type AF points vs 1 in the others. For bird and wildlife photography, I think that could make a significant difference. That said, they’re all very nice cameras, and any one of them could be used successfully. Remember, though, that 10 years ago, digital cameras were in the 3-5 megapixel range, and very noisy. The pace of technological change is only going to increase, with cameras… so I wouldn’t necessarily count on any of them being very attractive in 10 years, though they’re all probably as good as a 35mm film camera. Still… it makes the most sense to invest in lenses rather than bodies, when you can.
- Matthew
Hey Matthew,
I currently have the canon G9 and I’ve thought of upgrading to either the t3i or D60. This will primarily be used for regular personal use as well as images for my website(soulshark.net) Will I see a dramatic increase in image quality if I were to step up to the dslr? Thanks for any advise you can give.
Rick
Hi Rick,
The answer to that question depends entirely on what you mean by image quality. If you mean resolution and sharpness, then no, you won’t see any dramatic difference, especially at web-size. You might get less noise at high ISO using one of the SLRs, but the G9 is actually not bad there, either… so with a little noise reduction (and at web size) it won’t be a big deal.
That said, there’s a very significant difference in image quality based on the size of the sensor. It’s the same difference you see in video… the difference between a consumer video-camera (even at 1080p) and broadcast/movie production quality… you can tell there’s something different, but it’s sometimes hard to pin down exactly what it is… the home-made stuff just looks cheap. The difference is caused primarily by the difference in sensor size, which in turn causes a difference in the depth-of-field (DOF), which basically refers to how much of the picture appears to be in focus. With a larger sensor or film (all other things being equal), there’s less depth of field, ie, if the subject is in focus, the background and foreground are less in focus, creating a visual separation between them, effectively isolating the subject (to varying degrees, depending on other factors) from the rest of the scene. This can mean the difference between a professional looking portrait and what looks like a snapshot.
Lens choice and aperture choice also effect DOF, and you’ll have a much wider array of options when using an SLR.
And, needless to say, SLRs are much more responsive, generally speaking (though it’s been too long since I’ve used a G9 for me to remember how slow it is). That is to say, the SLR powers on instantly, and when the press the shutter release, it takes a picture with no delay (in practical terms), both of which help you take better action photos.
I suppose what this means is that one of the SLRs COULD give you much better image quality, depending on how you use it. If you continue to shoot with the same equivalent focal lenths at f16, then the difference will probably be minimal.
Hope that helps
- Matthew Gore
I appreciate your articles & read the reviews on the T3i, T2i & 60D. I’m going to purchase a T3i due to my primary purpose of using the camera is video. Any suggestions on the sound component of the camera?
There are several external mics that I’ve heard good things about, but I don’t use any of them myself. RODE makes a shotgun mic for about $150 , and a stereo mic for about $250, both are excellent quality. I’ve used RODE mics in the past for recording instruments, and they produced crisp, even response.
There are quite a few other options from Sanheiser, Sony, Audio-Technica, etc, but I don’t recall having heard anything about them.
Enjoy the camera,
Matthew