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Nikon D5500 vs D7200: Which Should You Buy?

We have written an updated version of this article, comparing the new Nikon D5600 and the Nikon D7200. Click here to read the new article, or click here to open it in a new tab.

The newly announced Nikon D7200 has finally been given a significant performance boost, making the choice between it and the D5500 (a less expensive camera that provides identical image quality) a much more difficult one to make.  It’s also worth noting that the changes between the new D5500 and D7200 and their predecessors are not very significant, so you may prefer to save money and buy the older models while they’re still available. My general advice is always this: buy the least expensive camera that will meet your needs, and buy the best lenses that you can afford. Below, I’ll cover the differences between these cameras and explain which types of photographers will find the different features useful.

New In the D5500

If you’re deciding between D5500 and older D5300, here’s the difference:

  • a touch-sensitive screen has been added to the D5500
  • built-in GPS have been removed in the D5500
  • the top of the ISO scale has been increased by a stop to 25600, though it may be more accurate to say that the “expanded” ISO of 25600 has been incorporated as “native”
  • its a millimeter shorter and narrower, 5mm thinner, and about 60 grams lighter (about the weight of an egg) than the D5300

That’s it! The D5500 and D5300 are virtually identical, otherwise, so as the price drops on the D5300, many photographers who don’t care about having a touch-screen or who want built-in GPS will be able to pick it up at a great price. Currently, the D5300 body costs $597 while the newer D5500 body costs $747.

The Nikon D5500, left, is slightly smaller than the D5300, and about 60g lighter.
The Nikon D5500, left, is slightly smaller than the D5300, and about 60g lighter.

Nikon D5500 vs D7200: What’s the Difference?

To begin with, we can take a look at the most significant specs for the D5500, D7100 and the new D7200.

Nikon D5500Nikon D7100Nikon D7200



Price (body)
$746$796$1096
Price (with 18-140mm kit lens)$1046$1096$1396
Body MaterialSereebo, (carbon fiber reenforced plastic) body-chassis Partial Magnesium Alloy Frame, PlasticPartial Magnesium Alloy Frame, Plastic
Dust/Weather Sealed BodyNoneYesYes
Sensor Resolution24.2Megapixels
24.1 Megapixels24.2 Megapixels
Anti-Aliasing Filter
(Reduces sharpness, prevents moire)
NONONO
ISO Range100-25600100-6400
+12800
+25600
100-25600
Total AF Points395151
Cross-Type AF Points91515
AF Motor In Body
(For Using Older AF Lenses)
NOYESYES
AF Light Level Range-1 to +19 EV-2 to +19 EV-3 to +19 EV
Autofocus Fine Tuning
Adjustments
NOYESYES
Shutter Speed Range1/4000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
1/8000th - 30 sec.
+bulb
Expected Shutter Life100,000 Shots150,000 Shots
Max Frame Rate5 fps6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
6 fps
(7 shots in 1.3x crop mode)
Max RAW Burst
(buffer size)
6 shots, compressed 14-bit7 shots lossless 12-bit
6 shots lossless 14-bit
18 shots 14-bit
Max JPG Burst
(fine, Large)
10033100
Flash Sync Speed1/200th sec.1/250th sec.
(1/320th* sec, or slower,)
1/250th sec.
Wireless Flash
(Built-in Commander)
NOYESYES
Auto FP Flash Mode
(High Speed Sync)
NOYESYES
Media Slots1 SD / SDHC / SDXC2 SD / SDHC / SDXC2 SD / SDHC / SDXC
LCD Size3.2"
1,036,800 pixels
3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
3.2"
1,228,800 pixels
LCD ArticulatedYesNoNo
LCD TouchscreenYESNoNo
Built-in GPS NoNo No
Built-in WiFiYesNoYes
Body Weight420g (no battery)
470 (with battery)
675 (no battery)675 (no battery)
Body Size124 x 97 x 70 mm136 x 107 x 76 mm136 x 106.5 x 76 mm
Battery Life820 shots
CIPA Standards
950 shots
CIPA Standards
1,110 shots
CIPA Standards
Viewfinder Coverage95% Frame
.82x Magnification
100% Frame
.94x Magnification
100% Frame
.94x Magnification
Video CodecMPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
MPEG-4 / H.264
.mov
Video Resolutions1920 x 1080 (60p, 60i, 50i, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
1920 x 1080 (60i*, 50i*, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)
1920 x 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps)
1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps)
640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)
Video Length Limit29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.29 min 59 sec.
Headphone JackNoYesYes
Internal MicStereoStereoStereo

back view nikon d7200 and d5500

Build Quality

Perhaps the most obvious difference between the D7200 and the D5500 is in their construction. The D5500 body is significantly smaller and lighter, built of carbon-fiber reenforced plastics (Sereebo), while the D7200 is heavier and built for durability, with a metal (magnesium alloy) back and top, and importantly, it is weather sealed. Since the D5500 also uses a smaller battery, the carry-around weight of the D7200 is about 40% more1 Actually 38.6% than the D5500.

Whether this is an advantage or disadvantage depends on your photographic needs; some photographers (especially those with larger hands) prefer a larger camera with some ‘heft’ to it, while others prefer something more lightweight and easy to carry around, especially travelers and hikers. Needless to say, those who work in harsh conditions will also prefer the D7200’s weather sealing and heavier-duty construction, as a matter of practicality.

Nikon D7200 with grip
Nikon D7200 with optional battery grip

The Sensors : Exactly the Same

Like the previous generation, Nikon’s D5500 and D7200 both have 24-megapixel sensors, and neither one makes use of an anti-aliasing filter. Consequently, if you shoot RAW files, you will not be able to detect any difference in image quality between these two cameras, and since both cameras now use the same processor, the JPGs should be equally indistinguishable.

More AA Filter Info
The success of the D800e may have led directly to Nikon’s decision to produce an APS-C camera without an optical low-pass/anti-aliasing (OLP/AA) filter, but whatever led to the fact, the D7200’s sensor is naked. Before the D800e, all of the major SLRs produced their sensors with an AA filter: essentially an extra layer in front of the sensor that blurs the image slightly, in order to reduce the jagged edges and moire 1 that have traditionally been associated with digital capture. With modern improvements in image processing software, though, Nikon was confident that the moire and jaggies could be avoided without the AA filter, so they opted to remove it2 To be more precise, the Nikon D800e does have an AA filter, but it also has an AA-canceling filter, so it does not have one in practical terms. The D810 does not have an AA filter at all, nor do the D5500 and D7200. and allow the cameras to capture finer image detail.

With the success of the D7100, Nikon also decided to remove the AA filter from the D5300 and D5500’s sensors, and now the D7200. For all practical purposes, there is no difference between the sensors the D7200 and D5500, so there should be no difference in image quality if you shoot RAW. Though this lack of AA filter does provide the potential to for the camera to produce sharper images, don’t expect too much.

Why does that matter?
Comparisons of images produced by the D800 (AA Filter) and D800e (no AA Filter) have shown that the principle works; there are subtle improvements in fine detail in the D800e’s images. However, we should not expect such significant improvements in the D7200’s images. The receptors on the 24 megapixel sensor of the D7200 are already much, much smaller than those of the D800e. In fact, the D7200 and D5500 fit about 56% more pixels into the same sensor area as the D800e.

Why does that matter? Even with the much larger receptors of the D800, lens resolution has become a serious bottle-neck for image quality. Nikon has already produced a special list of lenses that can allow you make the most out of your D800 sensor. The dramatically higher pixel density of Nikon’s 24-megapixel APS-C sensors will tax lens resolution even more, meaning that the D7200 and D5500’s images won’t get much sharper unless lenses get sharper first.

Auto Focus Systems

Unlike most entry and mid-level SLRs, the Nikon D5500 has a very sophisticated autofocus system. While cameras like the Canon T6i and 70D have 19 autofocus points, the D5500 has 39, though only the central nine of them are cross-type 3 If you’re not sure what cross-type points are, or why they’re important, check out our short video on the subject, here. . This autofocus system, which also incorporates color information, has been adopted from the Nikon D7000.

The D7200, however, shares the same AF system with the flagship Nikon D4 and the D810: 51 AF points, including 15 cross-type… the best system available in a Nikon body.

For all but the most dedicated action photographers, the system in the D5500 will be more than sufficient, even if you’re buying a camera primarily for shooting sports. If your paycheck, however, is going to depend on your focusing system, the extra several hundred dollars will be well spent on the D7200.

Speed

When it comes to speed, the differences between the D5500 and D7200 are more modest that you might expect. The D7200 does have a top shutter speed that is one full f-stop faster than the D5500’s (ie, 1/8000th vs 1/4000th). When it comes to shooting bursts of photos, though, the D7200 only provides an additional frame per second over the D5500’s 5 fps (unless you’re shooting in 1.3x crop mode, in which case it will give up an additional frame per second).

However (unlike the D7100) the D7200 has a significantly larger buffer, allowing longer continuous bursts of shooting. While the D5500 (and D7100) can only shoot 6 14-bit RAW files in a row before filling the buffer and getting bogged down, the D7200 can shoot 18 RAW images in a row, three times more than the D7100 (though it still lags significantly behind Canon’s original 7D, which could shoot 25).

Shooting JPG gives you even more freedom to hold down that shutter button. The D7200 can shoot bursts of 100 frames or more (at 6 fps), just like the D5500. The D7100 was only capable of shooting 33 in a row.

The D5500’s Downfall

Flash. With the popularity of “Strobist” techniques over the past several years, flash photography has become increasingly important to amateur and semi-pro photographers, and this is where the D5500 falls short: it lacks high-speed-sync4 For a quick explanation of what high-speed-sync is, watch our video here. (Auto FP Flash, henceforth AFP) and external flash control with the built-in flash. External flash control may not be a big deal; many of us prefer to use radio-units instead… though the built-in IR system can be very useful with Nikon’s Creative Lighting System (CLS).

The lack of AFP, however, is a serious problem. Consider this situation: you’re shooting a portrait outdoors during the day, and you want to use a large aperture to blur the background… perhaps f/2 or f/1.4 . This will push your shutter speed beyond 1/1000ths of a second, much higher than the camera’s 1/200th sec. maximum sync speed. So, if you want to use a flash to soften the shadows or create a catch-light in the eyes of your subject, forget it: the flash will not sync. The same is true if you want to use flash for sports and a high shutter speed, and while you can purchase external command modules or radio transmitters for off-camera-flashes, there’s nothing you can buy to work around the lack of AFP. You’d need to buy the D7200 instead.

In some instances, a neutral density filter can be used to bring the shutter speed down within the range of the D5500’s sync speed. There are several problems with the method, though: the image through your viewfinder can become quite dark, making it hard to frame your shot and making it hard for your camera’s AF system to pull focus, you lose flash power, if you’re shooting with a telephoto lens, shutter speeds at the camera’s sync speed might not be safe for hand-holding, and they’ll always be too slow for sports or fast action (if you’re balancing flash and ambient light).

Nikon SB-910, SB-700, and SB-500
A Nikon Flash Trio

All the Little Things

There are a few other assorted differences that deserve mention here, but they’re mostly the same differences that we saw between the D5100 and D7000. First, the D5500 does not have an autofocus motor built into the camera body, so it will not be compatible with the full range of (old school) Nikon lenses, while the D7200 does posses the motor. And speaking of “focus”, the D7200 is capable of micro adjustments to correct for front or back-focus problems on lenses, while the D5500 is not.

Nikon D5500 articulated screen
The Nikon D5500’s swivel screen.

As should be obvious from the images above, the D5500 has an articulated LCD screen, which some people find helpful for ground-level shots and video but others find a breakage hazard or amateurish.

The D7200 has dual SD card slots. It’s can be nice to have two slots if you want to record JPGs to one card and RAW to the other, perhaps sending JPGs to an Eye-Fi card, for example. However, if you only need storage space, a single slot is fine. These days, a single 64GB SDXC card costs only $30, and I rarely shoot more than 32GB per day, even at all-day events.

The D5300 has built-in GPS tagging, a feature that requires additional equipment with the D7200. This feature was dropped in the D5500, perhaps the result of the ubiquity of smartphones and apps such as GeoTag Photos Pro, but there are also reports of problems with battery drain using the GPS in the D5300, among other issues that I have yet to confirm.

Finally, if you are interested in video, the D7200 has been given a headphone jack for monitoring audio while you shoot. The jack is absent in the D5500 (and D5300, D7000). All of these cameras can shoot video at up to 1080p 60fps, except for the D7100, which can only shoot at 30fps at that resolution.

Which to Buy?

The Nikon D5300 and D5500 are great cameras, and I’d recommend them for the vast majority of amateur photographers, with the exception of those who need superior flash capabilities.

To summarize, you should buy the D5300 if you:

  • want a great, all-around camera
  • shoot primarily with natural light or studio strobes
  • need an articulated LCD screen for video or photos
  • want built-in GPS
  • want to save some money to buy the best lenses possible. At Amazon, the price for the D5300 body is $597

Buy the D5500 ONLY IF you:

  • really care about the weight of your camera. The D5500 weighs about 60g less than the D5300; that’s about the weight of a large chicken egg.
  • think you’ll really enjoy using a touchscreen.
  • find that the current prices are very similar. At Amazon, the price for the D5500 body is $747

Buy the D7100 if you:

  • don’t shoot bursts of action in RAW format and want the other features of the D7100
  • At Amazon, the current price for the D7100 body is $797

Buy the D7200 if you:

  • shoot lots of action, especially in long bursts
  • are hard on your equipment and need a more durable body
  • use flash for action or fill and need high-speed sync
  • use Nikon’s CLS and want to use the built-in command module
  • shoot macro (or other focus critical work) and need to make micro adjustments to your lenses
  • shoot a lot of video and want a simple headphone jack on your camera
  • don’t need to worry about spending a little more. At Amazon, the price for the D7200 body is $1097

For the sake of simplicity I’ve tried to focus on only the differences that, in my experience, will actually be important. There are, of course, numerous differences between the two cameras, though, and some features may be more important to particular photographers. If you think that I’ve left out something important, please feel free to let me know.

Please Comment!

If you have additional questions or comments, please let me know, below. I’ll do what I can to answer questions and clear up any confusion.

Editor-in-Chief
  1. I’m getting the D5500. I have the Nikon AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED VR Lens. Looking for reach without excessive weight and cost, would the Tamron B028 18-400mm F/3.5-6.3 HLD Di-II VC Lens meaningfully improve reach over the 70-300mm (and have good IQ)? Thanks.

    1. Hi Jim,
      Any time you pack a ton of zoom range into a single lens (like 18-400), there’s going to be diminished image quality somewhere. You’re much better off going with a more modest zoom range (100-400, 150-600, etc) to get great image quality. 400mm is a significant advantage over 300, though.

      The 150-600 is going to be bulky (though I think it’s generally worth it for anything that you’d want a long telephoto for). In this article, I showed my results with 100-400 and 150-600mm lenses from Sigma, but the lenses from Tamron are just as good.

      So, I’d recommend the Tamron 100-400mm lens instead, if you NEED a more compact lens, or go with the Sigma or Tamron 150-600. It’s worth it :-) I should say, though, that I’ve tested all of these lenses on Canon, not Nikon. Whichever you get, you should buy the tap-in dock do keep firmware up to date, since autofocus issues have cropped up in the past.

      – Matthew

      1. Thanks. Weight is an important factor, so the few you mentioned unfortunately all seem too heavy. Looks like the Tamron 18-400mm is the lightest 400mm lens out there?

        1. Probably. When it comes to high quality optics, weight is one of the first things to go. I’ve used the 18-400 briefly, and the image quality is OK at the wide end, but not great… and it gets worse beyond 200mm. It’s build for convenience rather than high optical quality. Chances are, you’ll get better image quality by using a higher-quality 300mm lens and cropping then shooting at 400mm with the Tamron.

          If you don’t have anything to compare it directly with, though, you might not really notice or care. Good luck!

          1. Thanks. The lens I have now is the Nikon AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED VR Lens. When you say a higher quality 300mm lens and cropping may be better than the Tamron 18-400mm, do you think that is the case with this lens? Or is this Nokkor lens not of the quality you speak of and so the Tanron may be better than cropping the Nikkor?

            1. It’s actually not a lens that I have a lot of experience with… but no, I’m afraid that your existing lens probably would not provide the optical quality that I had in mind. I was actually thinking of the Nikon AF-P NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E ED VR, but the old Tamron 70-300 is also remarkably sharp. I’d expect an update to that lens in the next year or so, though.

  2. basically a beginner. need an all round camera. have a budget of aprox. 1500-2k for entire kit. would like something that’s not to dlicate and has some protection from the elements. what’s the best lens for sharp pictures in low light? should I buy a lens kit or buy them individually?
    if I want to play around once I get the hang of it. have had lots of slr’s in the past and cheap digitals but now I have the money to invest in a decent package. I love your articles but still a bit overwhelmed with the choices. please let me know your input for me.
    thx so much! appreciate your good work!
    Colleen

    1. Hi Colleen,

      Sorry for the delay! If you’re looking for a DSLR (rather than mirrorless), then it’s really hard to beat the value of the D7200 for an all-around, weather-sealed camera. As you’ve probably already seen, my advice is always to buy the least expensive body that will meet your needs and the best lenses you can afford… the D7200 sounds like it will meet your needs, and it’s not too expensive.

      In low light, the best lenses are the ones with a low f-stop number. So, f/1.4 lets in twice as much light as f/2, and that’s twice as much light as f/2.8, which is twice as much as f/4. So, ANY f/1.4 lens (or better) will be excellent in low light… but they’re going to be large and expensive, with a few exceptions.

      F/1.8 lenses are only a little less light and they’re typically much smaller and less expensive. Nikon’s 50mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8 and 35mm f/1.8 are all great lenses for low-light and are not too expensive, but there’s no zooming… they’re prime lenses.

      If you’re looking for a zoom lens, the best options are the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 ART and 50-100 f/1.8 ART series lenses. Again, a bit heavy and expensive, but great in low light and very sharp.

      Otherwise, f/2.8 zoom lenses are the professional standard. I shoot with a 70-200 f/2.8 most of the time, but they’re going to start at $1200.

      Cheaper lenses will have a variable aperture, like the 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6. That means that when you’re shooting at 18mm its an f/3.5 lens, but it’s an f/5.6 when you’re at 140mm. f/5.6 is pretty bad in low light, of course.

      Good luck!

      – Matthew

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